Death Valley National Park - February 2022 - Part Two

 

please remember you can click on a photo to see a larger version & highlighted text are links to additional information

 

Please click here for - Part One

 

Old Paths

 

The Baggers and the Ski3pins share a deep interest in and love of ancient rock art and archeology. The Baggers came to Saline Valley armed with an old academic research paper they had found. Our plan was a quick stop to orient the paper's drawn map to our current topographic maps and to the real world. A problem arose, we started finding stuff right off and could not stop looking for more. It's safe to say that Lake Bagger (Deb) was the star of the day with a keen ability to find arc sites. First off was a bedrock mortar in a deep draw. (Note, that ugly green thing was an old discarded electric blanket that must have blown a long way to get here.)

 

 

 

 

 

Next up was an amazing shelter site.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The team down climbed into a nearby deep opening and found nothing to suggest its use as a shelter.

 

 

 

 

 

We explored a spring with running water and found hunting blinds overlooking the water source.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We have no idea why Elvis was way out here.

 

 

 

 

 

We split up - four sets of eyes make a big difference - and moved over to a large area to the west. We communicated with handheld radios.

 

Julie and I investigated a series of springs up against the hillside.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We spotted Lake and Peak out on a high point several hundred yards away.

 

 

 

 

 

We walked out and joined them on the point. The ground was littered with obsidian flakes from ancient point and tool making. This was a very special place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve took off to check out a distant spring.

 

 

 

 

 

Julie and I headed in a different direction and located a stone circle or hunting blind.

 

 

 

 

 

We heard distant shouts from Lake - we're weren't picking up her radio calls - and turned to find her. She had found a single boulder with a petroglyph in a wash.

 

 

 

 

 

It's location matched the point marked in the research paper. Right above it she found a stacked stone hogan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The research paper adds this information about the hogan: it was not mentioned in a survey done in 1931, "therefore a post-1931 date seems reasonable. It is conceivable that the structure was built and occupied by remnant Shoshone people."

 

We continued scouring the area as we made our way back to our trucks. Finding another hunting blind got the Lady and Peak motivated to become hunters and gatherers.

 

 

 

 

 

Throughout the day jets continued to blast by just above the ground.................................

 

 

 

 

 

.........................including a C-17.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Many times the roar was deafening. We cupped our hands over our ears. Peak recently retired as a wing designer for Boeing and he filled us in on the dynamics and dangers of flight.

 

It was close to 4:30 pm when we arrived back at our vehicles. What a day it had been! We were ecstatic about all our wonderful "finds". Our decision was to set up camp for the night nearby. We camped near the undeveloped Upper Warm Springs.

 

The evening was grand. The stories flowed gentle and warm like hot spring waters. Deep restful sleep came so easily.

 

The wind had stilled as the next morning came. There is no better pursuit than to watch first light wash over the landscape.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Since we had stayed in the area, we now had a long drive to reach our next destination and Lake had an appointment with a NPS ranger at the Visitors Center to make. They took off ahead of us. We'd rendezvous later in the day.

 

Julie and I slowly drove through the Springs. It was Friday morning and the coming weekend crowd was building but, all in all, it was quiet at the Springs.

 

 

We fulfilled our duties and took the requisite photos at the Bat Pole.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bats fly low over the springs in the evening and I believe this brought about the naming of Bat Road and the Bat Pole.

 

Our exit from Saline Valley was via what is called the south pass. As we climbed toward the grade that snakes up Grapevine Canyon, the Lady heard a pop and ding from the right front tire. "I think we're getting a flat," she announced. We stopped in the road, took a look, and all tires were fine. A horrid screech erupted as soon as we starting driving again. I had a good idea what the issue was but we needed a safe flat spot off the road to jack up the truck and take a look. We soon found a safe turnout and went to work. The tool kit was pulled out - a small action packer that sits on the floor behind the driver's seat. The Lady retrieved the stock jack from its mount. We've practiced this all at home. I was correct with my diagnosis. Clearance is tight between the inside of the rim and the brake caliper. This seems to happen to us every 100,000 miles or so with our truck. A rock flies inside the rim and the rotation brings it around to contact one of the two spring steel clips that position the brake pads and the caliper. The clip bends and scrapes the inside of the wheel rim. It makes a hell of a racket. It is easily fixed. Jack up the truck, remove the tire, remove the caliper, and bend the clip. All in all it took 45 minutes. Never get in a hurry doing field repairs. Slow is pro.

 

One truck drove by as we were fixing the truck. Our plight was very evident - tool box open, tools on the ground, truck jacked up, tire off. Times have changed out in the desert. This guy did not stop, did not acknowledge us, just drove on by. I was surprised and saddened. In the old days every backroad traveler would stop and inquire if help was needed. We help each other in the backcountry. Apparently that is no more. If someone had stopped, we would have said we had it all in hand, and thoroughly thanked the person for their kindness in stopping to check on a fellow traveler.

 

The remainder of the drive out was uneventful and beautiful. This is great country to drive through. After topping off with gas and airing the tires back up at Panamint Springs, we continued on into the National Park. We rendezvoused with Steve and Deb at Furnace Creek. Their meeting with the NPS ranger had gone well. It was 93°. Wow! We needed to get higher to cooler temperatures.

 

Our adventure was just getting started!

 

The story continues.......please click here for - Part Three.

 

Death Valley National Park - February 2022 - Part One

 

please remember you can click on a photo to see a larger version & highlighted text are links to additional information

 

Following Tracks

 

The weather had been simply awful at home, a long winter dry spell, no rain or snow with above average temperatures. Although a strong signal of our continuing drought, it made for easy travel in clear weather. We were off for a week in Death Valley.

 

We left early Tuesday morning and had easy going over the Tahoe passes and down the east side of the Sierra on highway 395. It would not be so on our return, but I get ahead of myself. We stopped at Schatz's and picked up a fresh made Mule Kick Sandwich, roast beef on sourdough with jalapeño slices - the mule kick. We shared half the sandwich in the pleasant town park and saved the remaining half for dinner. And then it was on to Saline Valley.

 

We entered the remote valley via what is called the north pass. It is a usually good graded dirt road descent. On this trip we encountered several miles of packed snow, ice, and rutted mud in the shaded sections. It was not difficult but did require caution and care.

 

 

Our first objective was in the Waucoba Wash area. We were searching for a trilobite fossil site. We parked in the early afternoon and prepared to hike and scramble.

 

 

 

 

 

The predominate rock was limestone that was also filled with fossils.

 

 

 

 

 

We, of course, headed straight up and crested a steep ridge line.

 

 

 

 

 

Seeing the terrain ahead, perhaps this was not the best idea. We quickly descended the other side and then circled the landform to locate the steep point we wished to ascend. We climbed the point along the tilted layers of limestone.

 

 

 

 

 

The Lady is happiest on top.

 

 

 

 

 

We moved over to the nearby layer of shattered slate, got on our knees, and started turning over plates of rock. The trilobites were not abundant, but were there, mostly broken pieces of fossils.

 

 

 

 

 

We were excited to finally discover a mostly complete specimen.

 

 

 

 

 

Fossil collecting is prohibited. We took only photos and returned the fossil to where it was found. We descended the point and took an easier but longer roundabout route back to our truck.

 

Sunlight is short this time of year, especially with us up against the eastern flank of the Inyo Mountains. Driving south we searched for access to a campsite immersed in solitude with a view. A drive up a rough spur road provided just what we were looking for.

 

 

 

 

 

Dusk came quickly and the light softened. The long Saline Valley stretched out below us to the south. The vastness was almost overwhelming - our main draw to this fascinating landscape.

 

 

 

 

 

The half moon was directly overhead and illuminated the land beautifully. We went for a long night walk. There was a cold stiff wind. We always - when on a night walk - walk into the wind so on our return our backs will be to the wind and warmer. How cold we get walking dictates our turnaround point.

 

We walked up hill. Our building body heat offset the cold wind and we were quite warm at our turnaround about 1.5 miles from the truck. Since the return was warmer with our backs to the wind, off came our fleece hats and gloves.

 

It was a glorious night to be out in this vastness. The stars sparkled in the sky above, fighting with the bright moon for dominance. Upon returning to camp and climbing into the camper, the Lady asked, "Where's my hat? I can't find it. It's one of my favorites!" This is a question I'm quite familiar with. All the photos you've seen on this blog with the Lady out ahead are not necessarily because she's a fast hard hiker - she, of course, is - but are because I've learned to stay behind and pick up accidentally discarded items. Life is easier this way. This night we were walking side by side in the road and I missed the hat that did not make it into her jacket pocket.

"Take a few minutes and carefully search everywhere here before we take off on a hat hunt," I asked the Lady. I was afraid other important items would be lost in the ensuing flurry of activity. No hat. We repeated our night walk and retrieved the errant headgear at our earlier turn around point. All was again right with the world and we tallied up an additional three miles of walking before bedtime.

 

We woke early the next morning, bundled up, and soaked in the predawn light.

 

 

 

 

 

We drove down into Saline Valley, turned on Bat Road, and drove past the Warm Springs. Navy F-18 fighter jets greeted us, flying low overhead.

 

 

 

 

 

We drove up the road toward Steele Pass until we saw the truck and camper we were looking for. It was parked and we pulled in alongside. From its location we had a good idea what canyon the couple were exploring. After getting our boots on and packs ready, we walked over to the truck and took note of the boot prints. We would follow their tracks.

 

Pro tip: At the being of a hike take a photo (since you're all carrying smartphones, make use of them) of your companions to note appearance, clothing and packs. Also take a photo of footwear and the sole (or a photo of a fresh print with the boot next to it). Do this especially if you have kids or grand kids. If someone becomes separated or lost and a search is started, this information will be very valuable to search and rescue personnel and you will not have to rely on shaky memory during an extremely stressful time. Make it a habit.

 

 

The views on the approach were expansive.

 

 

 

 

 

We entered the wash and gained the mouth of the unnamed canyon.

  

 

 

 

 

The canyon narrowed and offered fun short climbs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The canyon splits with a west and east fork. Tracks went up and back down the west fork but only up the east. We now had a good idea where we'd find the couple. We've been up this canyon several years ago and really enjoyed returning. A large chockstone blocks the east fork and requires a bypass. The bypass gives a nice view up the west fork.

 

 

 

 

 

The canyon walls are very light colored welded volcanic tuff.

We started up the east fork.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

"Hi, are you Steve?" the Lady hollered when I pointed out a man above us, around a corner, coming down canyon. The woman was a short distance behind.

Steve looked a bit puzzled as to how she knew his name.

"I'm Julie!" the Lady quickly added, "And this is Monte behind me."

 

After introductions and greetings, they suggested we continue up canyon; it was well worth the effort.  We would meet them back at our trucks. I've now decided on a nickname for the two - The Baggers. Steve loves to bag peaks. Deb loves to bag lakes.

 

The canyon narrowed and the walls grew high and impressive. The Baggers were right, it was a impressive canyon.

 

 

 

 

 

A striking intrusion of basalt cut through the tuff.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We continued up canyon with the Lady putting her new pain free mobility to good use.

 

 

 

 

 

We turned around at the fork The Baggers told us about and thoroughly enjoyed our journey back down.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is an incredible landscape.

 

 

 

 

 

The Baggers were waiting for us at the canyon's opening onto the bajada. We chatted about the ancient rock art we had also found in the area.

 

 

There was an impressive fertility site.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One panel held zoomorphs and possible depictions of condors.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The varying ages of the artwork was apparent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Human (or spirit) depictions were also present.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The rock art told so many stories, the meanings we could only guess.

 

 

 

 

 

I prefer to just gaze with awe and quiet wonder.

 

 

 

 

 

This was not a completely random meaning with The Baggers. We had corresponded through emails about their trip down from Washington to spend time in Death Valley. With our schedule, it was unsure if we could join them. They had kept us up to date as to their location with InReach messages.

 

We moved our trucks to a comfortable spot to make camp for the night. We chatted well into the evening and got acquainted. Peak and Lake are a great pair, full of energy and with captivating interests, and delightful to spend time with. We were so pleased we had made the effort to meet up with them.

 

We woke early the next morning. Julie busied herself with her first round of knee exercises in the camper as I wandered in the predawn.

 

 

 

 

We had plans for this day that were quickly discarded. A short hike turned into a full day of thrilling discovery. Maybe we'd even find Elvis.

 

The story continues in the next chapter. Please chick here for -  Part Two.