Death Valley National Park - February 2022 - Part One

 

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Following Tracks

 

The weather had been simply awful at home, a long winter dry spell, no rain or snow with above average temperatures. Although a strong signal of our continuing drought, it made for easy travel in clear weather. We were off for a week in Death Valley.

 

We left early Tuesday morning and had easy going over the Tahoe passes and down the east side of the Sierra on highway 395. It would not be so on our return, but I get ahead of myself. We stopped at Schatz's and picked up a fresh made Mule Kick Sandwich, roast beef on sourdough with jalapeño slices - the mule kick. We shared half the sandwich in the pleasant town park and saved the remaining half for dinner. And then it was on to Saline Valley.

 

We entered the remote valley via what is called the north pass. It is a usually good graded dirt road descent. On this trip we encountered several miles of packed snow, ice, and rutted mud in the shaded sections. It was not difficult but did require caution and care.

 

 

Our first objective was in the Waucoba Wash area. We were searching for a trilobite fossil site. We parked in the early afternoon and prepared to hike and scramble.

 

 

 

 

 

The predominate rock was limestone that was also filled with fossils.

 

 

 

 

 

We, of course, headed straight up and crested a steep ridge line.

 

 

 

 

 

Seeing the terrain ahead, perhaps this was not the best idea. We quickly descended the other side and then circled the landform to locate the steep point we wished to ascend. We climbed the point along the tilted layers of limestone.

 

 

 

 

 

The Lady is happiest on top.

 

 

 

 

 

We moved over to the nearby layer of shattered slate, got on our knees, and started turning over plates of rock. The trilobites were not abundant, but were there, mostly broken pieces of fossils.

 

 

 

 

 

We were excited to finally discover a mostly complete specimen.

 

 

 

 

 

Fossil collecting is prohibited. We took only photos and returned the fossil to where it was found. We descended the point and took an easier but longer roundabout route back to our truck.

 

Sunlight is short this time of year, especially with us up against the eastern flank of the Inyo Mountains. Driving south we searched for access to a campsite immersed in solitude with a view. A drive up a rough spur road provided just what we were looking for.

 

 

 

 

 

Dusk came quickly and the light softened. The long Saline Valley stretched out below us to the south. The vastness was almost overwhelming - our main draw to this fascinating landscape.

 

 

 

 

 

The half moon was directly overhead and illuminated the land beautifully. We went for a long night walk. There was a cold stiff wind. We always - when on a night walk - walk into the wind so on our return our backs will be to the wind and warmer. How cold we get walking dictates our turnaround point.

 

We walked up hill. Our building body heat offset the cold wind and we were quite warm at our turnaround about 1.5 miles from the truck. Since the return was warmer with our backs to the wind, off came our fleece hats and gloves.

 

It was a glorious night to be out in this vastness. The stars sparkled in the sky above, fighting with the bright moon for dominance. Upon returning to camp and climbing into the camper, the Lady asked, "Where's my hat? I can't find it. It's one of my favorites!" This is a question I'm quite familiar with. All the photos you've seen on this blog with the Lady out ahead are not necessarily because she's a fast hard hiker - she, of course, is - but are because I've learned to stay behind and pick up accidentally discarded items. Life is easier this way. This night we were walking side by side in the road and I missed the hat that did not make it into her jacket pocket.

"Take a few minutes and carefully search everywhere here before we take off on a hat hunt," I asked the Lady. I was afraid other important items would be lost in the ensuing flurry of activity. No hat. We repeated our night walk and retrieved the errant headgear at our earlier turn around point. All was again right with the world and we tallied up an additional three miles of walking before bedtime.

 

We woke early the next morning, bundled up, and soaked in the predawn light.

 

 

 

 

 

We drove down into Saline Valley, turned on Bat Road, and drove past the Warm Springs. Navy F-18 fighter jets greeted us, flying low overhead.

 

 

 

 

 

We drove up the road toward Steele Pass until we saw the truck and camper we were looking for. It was parked and we pulled in alongside. From its location we had a good idea what canyon the couple were exploring. After getting our boots on and packs ready, we walked over to the truck and took note of the boot prints. We would follow their tracks.

 

Pro tip: At the being of a hike take a photo (since you're all carrying smartphones, make use of them) of your companions to note appearance, clothing and packs. Also take a photo of footwear and the sole (or a photo of a fresh print with the boot next to it). Do this especially if you have kids or grand kids. If someone becomes separated or lost and a search is started, this information will be very valuable to search and rescue personnel and you will not have to rely on shaky memory during an extremely stressful time. Make it a habit.

 

 

The views on the approach were expansive.

 

 

 

 

 

We entered the wash and gained the mouth of the unnamed canyon.

  

 

 

 

 

The canyon narrowed and offered fun short climbs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The canyon splits with a west and east fork. Tracks went up and back down the west fork but only up the east. We now had a good idea where we'd find the couple. We've been up this canyon several years ago and really enjoyed returning. A large chockstone blocks the east fork and requires a bypass. The bypass gives a nice view up the west fork.

 

 

 

 

 

The canyon walls are very light colored welded volcanic tuff.

We started up the east fork.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

"Hi, are you Steve?" the Lady hollered when I pointed out a man above us, around a corner, coming down canyon. The woman was a short distance behind.

Steve looked a bit puzzled as to how she knew his name.

"I'm Julie!" the Lady quickly added, "And this is Monte behind me."

 

After introductions and greetings, they suggested we continue up canyon; it was well worth the effort.  We would meet them back at our trucks. I've now decided on a nickname for the two - The Baggers. Steve loves to bag peaks. Deb loves to bag lakes.

 

The canyon narrowed and the walls grew high and impressive. The Baggers were right, it was a impressive canyon.

 

 

 

 

 

A striking intrusion of basalt cut through the tuff.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We continued up canyon with the Lady putting her new pain free mobility to good use.

 

 

 

 

 

We turned around at the fork The Baggers told us about and thoroughly enjoyed our journey back down.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is an incredible landscape.

 

 

 

 

 

The Baggers were waiting for us at the canyon's opening onto the bajada. We chatted about the ancient rock art we had also found in the area.

 

 

There was an impressive fertility site.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One panel held zoomorphs and possible depictions of condors.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The varying ages of the artwork was apparent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Human (or spirit) depictions were also present.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The rock art told so many stories, the meanings we could only guess.

 

 

 

 

 

I prefer to just gaze with awe and quiet wonder.

 

 

 

 

 

This was not a completely random meaning with The Baggers. We had corresponded through emails about their trip down from Washington to spend time in Death Valley. With our schedule, it was unsure if we could join them. They had kept us up to date as to their location with InReach messages.

 

We moved our trucks to a comfortable spot to make camp for the night. We chatted well into the evening and got acquainted. Peak and Lake are a great pair, full of energy and with captivating interests, and delightful to spend time with. We were so pleased we had made the effort to meet up with them.

 

We woke early the next morning. Julie busied herself with her first round of knee exercises in the camper as I wandered in the predawn.

 

 

 

 

We had plans for this day that were quickly discarded. A short hike turned into a full day of thrilling discovery. Maybe we'd even find Elvis.

 

The story continues in the next chapter. Please chick here for -  Part Two.