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Old Trails
Warranty repair on our new truck was not completed by the date promised. This threw plans we had made into the trash, but, in a larger sense, perhaps it was best. It was not the kind of issue to get worked up about and had a side benefit of keeping us home and not traveling on the busy Memorial Day Weekend.
But we could not stay home. A long time and dear friend, Jim, was home, was available, and wondered if we could do something together on Saturday. Knowing our own backyard so well, it was easy to come up with an interesting and exciting adventure – another historical treasure hunt!
We’ve made numerous trips exploring the traces of Pioneer Overland Trails across the West. Since the Carson Route of the California Trail passes right by our home, it is near and dear to our hearts. Here are two past adventures –
Along the Carson Route, California Trail – October 2019
The Carson Route of the California Trail – Late May 2020
We asked our friend, Jim, if he’d like to join us to search for traces of the historic trail where it climbed the West Fork Carson River Canyon and on into Hope Valley?
If we asked you, what would your answer be?
We were using Frank Tortorich Jr.’s “Gold Rush Trail, A Guide to the Carson River Route of the Emigrant Trail” as our source for information.
Tortorich’s guide to the trail starts at the Pony Express Marker along the old highway (SR 88) at Woodfords Station.
The Carson Route crossed the West Fork of the Carson River at three places in the canyon. The first crossing (to the south side) was close to the current bridge over the river at Crystal Springs Campground.
The Carson Canyon has changed much since the days of the overland trail, with major road construction (several rebuilds, reroutes, bridges), power lines, campgrounds, and a buried water system running down the canyon. It is remarkable that traces of the trail remain. 1.2 miles up from the first crossing, we walked a short section of original trail high above the river. The route has, most recently, been marked with “pregnant triangle” markers.
The second crossing (to the north side) was a short way up canyon at the site of a, now abandoned and blocked, old highway bridge. The river was up a bit with spring snow melt. Most travel on the trail started mid-summer with lower water flow.
A wider possible ford just downstream from the bridge.
We were also well aware that Tortorich’s guide book was published in 1998, nearly 30 years ago. A lot can change along busy highways in 30 years.
The best section of old trail is accessed from the Horsethief Canyon Trailhead on SR 88. There is a Trails West marker.
This area is also tied to Snowshoe Thompson, famous for carrying mail across the Sierra Nevada in winter on skis.
The route of the old trail climbed up to a saddle above the river. Along this way we looked for an inscription made with axle grease in 1849. We were told it is nearly, now after so so many years, invisible. It reads, “Rogers AUG 28,th 49” This rock face matched the photo. At first, we saw no inscription.
The Lady climbed the backside of the rock, and from her high perch, shaded the rock with her red vest.
This was a definite highpoint of our day.
Just uphill, and across the old trail, was what’s called “Snowshoe’s Cave,” a place it’s claimed Thompson would take shelter.
We spent time looking for evidence of granite polished smooth by wagon wheels running against rock and stained with rust from the iron rims on the wagon wheels.
The guidebook mentioned granite bedrock between two huge granite boulders that showed grooves from wagon wheels. We were unsuccessful finding this. Were we thirty years too late?
The third river crossing (over to the south side) was above this section and at the site of the old highway bridge at the long-closed Snowshoe Springs Campground.
The route continued up into Hope Valley, crossing the river twice near the current Hope Valley Resort and before today's Desolation Hotel (for years this was Sorensen’s Resort). The old trail is marked through the resort’s property. It was the busy Memorial Day weekend, so we didn’t stop, although we’ve visited Sorensen’s many times over the years.
Our next stops were near Picketts Junction, the intersection of SR 88 (the road to Carson Pass) and SR 89 (to road to Luther Pass). This was also an overland trail intersection as “Johnson’s Cut-off” gained in popularity as Johnson's Pass was more than two thousand feet lower in elevation than West Pass ahead on the Carson Route. Trails West has markers at this intersection.
Note: Hangtown was an earlier name for Placerville, CA
We were sidetracked by the Camas (Camassia quamash)
showing off their spring attire.
Just west of Picketts, on the north side of SR 88 was an amazing section of the Carson Route where a shallow “swale” remains.
It was easier to see looking back in the opposite direction.
Our next stop was at the SR 88 bridge over the West Fork Carson River in Hope Valley. Here we looked for traces of where the old trail dropped down to ford the river (just south of the bridge) for the final time. We searched the east side of the river,
But the swale was easier to see on the west side of the river – the swale curving to the right just left of center in the photo below.
It was amazing these faint traces remain. Between the final crossing of the Carson River and Blue Lakes Road (near its intersection with SR 88) was a very nice section of the Carson Route, well away from the busy highway.
Prior to the “pregnant triangle,” the old trail was marked with “strip signs” labeled “Emigrant Road.” In places these old “strip signs” still remain.
This section ran through breathtaking scenery. I returned to the car. The Lady and Jim continued on and walked the mile across Hope Valley to Blue Lakes Road where I picked them up.
In a day’s time we managed to explore a delightful piece of the Carson Route here close to home. We look forward to continuing our explorations of the old trail. Jim, thanks for the wonderful day!
