please remember you can click on a photo to see a larger version & highlighted text are links to additional information
The Most Beautiful Canyon
Yes, it is a bold statement. Fall Canyon was one of the first of Death Valley’s canyons that we explored many years ago and, thus, it holds fond memories for us. It had been eleven years since our last visit. In those intervening years we have explored many other canyons in the National Park. So, how would it hold up now? The bold statement above says it all.
Our original plan was to return to LeMoigne Canyon, another of our favorites, as the road had just reopened from flood damage repair the first of February. Alas, as we prepared to turn off of highway 190 and onto LeMoigne Canyon Road, we found barricades across the entrance. The recent heavy rains of February sixth had closed the road along with Cottonwood and Marble canyons. It took about five seconds to come up with an alternate plan for this trip.
We returned to Mesquite Springs Campground and were settled in well before evening light.
One of the absolute thrills of this trip was finding all the mountain tops covered in snow – the Panamints, Grapevines, Cottonwoods, Last Chance Range – an incredible different view of this desert Park.
We were up early the following morning to take in first light on the Cottonwood Mountains.
The trailhead for Fall Canyon is at the entrance to Titus Canyon. Since Titus Canyon Road has been closed since the remnants of Hurricane Hillary roared through last June – and not expected to reopen any time soon – this makes it a great time to hike up the famous Titus Canyon narrows without the noise and dust of a parade of vehicles. We expected the parking area to be busier.
We headed out on the unmarked use trail that runs north along the mountain front and then drops into the broad wash at the mouth of Fall Canyon.
It was like revisiting a dear old friend as we entered Fall Canyon.
The canyon alternates between narrows and wider, open sections, but all surrounded by beautiful layered, uplifted, and folded rock.
We came upon a wonderful example of slickenside high on the south wall of the canyon.
Spotting slickensides always makes a good day even better.
We continued up into the goodness that is Fall Canyon.
After 2.5 miles, we reached the pour over that stops most from venturing into the extraordinary narrows above.
It is hard to see in the photos, but there is cold, clear water flowing over the falls. This made for an amazing time to be in Death Valley.
We backtracked down canyon to the bypass we remembered and we made a mistake. We saw a steep cleft in the canyon wall. We could climb it but the initial exposure was uncomfortable and it just did not look right. We wisely decided not to attempt it. After dropping back into the wash, we walked a short distance up canyon and the Lady spotted the proper bypass we’ve climbed before. Digonnet rates it as class four. It does have a bit of exposure but the handholds are bomber. The cleft narrows above so its best to move without packs and haul them up later. The worse part is standing atop the wobbly stack of rocks in place to help reach the first move. Here’s the Lady on the first section of the climb in 2007.
The stacked rock pile was much higher in 2007.
A view up canyon from the top of the climb. The bypass, although, scrambles up much higher.
Ledge walking to reach the downward ramp to the top of the falls.
The narrows directly above the falls are spectacular. We consider it a cathedral. Water was flowing.
After a half mile or so, the canyon opens up. We took advantage of the sunlight and stopped for a snack, water, and quiet break in the warmth.
As we were finishing our break, we heard voices approaching. We met Grant and Gator, longtime buddies from Wisconsin and Minnesota. They were backpacking to spend a night in Fall Canyon. We continued up canyon into more spectacular narrows.
We broke out into another widening of the canyon and Grant and Gator announced we had reached their camp spot, on a nice bench above the wash. We continued up canyon to another opening and made it our turnaround point.
Our descent down Fall Canyon was equally impressive as our ascent.
At two places we marveled at the boulders that had fallen from above into the canyon.
We reentered the narrows above the falls.
The Lady peered over the top of the falls into the wash below and startled a couple standing there. In total, I believe we saw 8 other people in Fall Canyon this day. Only the backpackers and us ventured above the falls.
A view down into the canyon from a high point on the bypass route.
The Lady pulled out a length of webbing for lowering the packs and we easily did the down climb back into the wash. Finding a sun lit spot, we stopped for another snack break. We then enjoyed the 2.5 miles back out to the mouth of Fall Canyon.
We caught up to the couple who were at the base of the falls at the point where the use trail climbs out of the large wash to head south back to Titus Canyon. The man was already up and far ahead of the woman. Watching her walk on the cobble, we both instantly remarked that it looked like her feet really hurt. Reaching her the Lady asked, “Are you doing okay? You are walking like your feet hurt.”
“They do,” she answered.
“Are you okay though?” the Lady continued. “Will you make it out? Do you need any water or food?”
The woman was not carrying a pack. Her partner, ahead and not paying attention to her, had a small pack with him.
“It is about a mile back to your car. Are you sure you are okay?” the Lady inquired again.
“I’ll make it.”
We caught up with the man about hundred yards ahead. In a cheerful voice the Lady said, “Boy, you sure owe her a really nice foot massage tonight!”
The man glared at the Lady.
“And how are you doing? Are you doing well?” I asked.
“I’m fine,” the man replied but seemed truly irritated I would dare ask him such a question.
There was interesting dynamics going on with these two. They did arrive safely back to the trailhead.
We relaxed and waited until they drove away. It had been an absolutely wonderful day spent in the most beautiful canyon in Death Valley.
Back at our campsite at Mesquite Springs, we walked in glorious evening light before turning in.
Our adventure continues. Please click here for - Part Two.
No comments:
Post a Comment