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Horses,
Sheep, and Camels, Oh My!
"Wow,
it is cold outside!" we both exclaimed as we climbed back into our truck,
idling along the highway in Hope Valley. This was our first pee break as we
started our winter break trip between the holidays and it was still well before
sunup.
"What
does the outside thermometer read?" I asked the Lady.
"Ten
below zero."
"It should
feel cold then," I answered as I turned the truck east on highway 88.
"Next time we pee, let's put our puffy jackets on."
It was
thirteen below zero as we passed through Bridgeport on highway 395.
"You
like this." I said to the Lady, content in the passenger seat and gazing
out at the marvelous landscape as I drove. It was both a question and a statement.
"I
do." The Lady answered.
On this
bright clear morning after a storm, chain controls were still up on 395 between
June Lake and the turn off to Mammoth. The road was packed snow and ice but the
sun was warm through the windshield. Traffic was thankfully light on 395, where
many find for the first time 4x4 helps you go faster but doesn't help one bit
at slowing down or stopping. Please observe the posted speed limits on highways
in chain control restrictions.
Once again,
we were heading to Death Valley National Park and we hoped to ferret out more
of its secrets. Much research and planning had gone into this trip. Would it
pay off? Horses, sheep, and camels, oh my!
A couple of
years ago I heard about a rock art site that contained pictographs of horses,
indicating that this artwork was post European contact and the introduction of
the modern horse into the western hemisphere.
With research from several sources, I figured we had a better than 50%
chance of success of finding the site, "The Three Horses Shelter" and
we were anxious to get on with the search. We parked a bit away as I know, when
I see a vehicle parked by itself in an interesting location, I'm asking, "I
wonder what they might be off looking for?" and my research begins.
After a few
miles of hiking, we investigated a shallow alcove that looked not the least
promising.
But, as in
many things in life, it is best to be patient and take a closer look.
Red sheep were
painted over older black pictographs.
Several ghostly manlike figures adored the small area.
And here
were the three horses!
The top
horse could possibly have a rider and the bottom drawing is a more
complicated work that is possibly two horses side by side looking in opposite directions. Or maybe "Siamese Horses" as the Lady thinks? My money's on a "Push Me Pull Me Horse."
This was a
very intriguing pictograph as the creature appears to have classic sheep horns
but does it have a rider? To me, this may be another horse with rider.
This is a
very special site that should be treated with the utmost respect. Please do not
touch or disturb anything if you visit an archeology site. Leave not a sign
that you were ever there.
We continued
our exploration and were delighted to find several habitation sites.
One site was
the most intact and undisturbed site we have visited.
We felt we
had hit the jackpot, this was more than enough to mark this as a
fantastic trip!
As always,
we will give no directions or location information so please do not ask. It is
far more rewarding to put in a lot of homework and have it pay off.
We drove up
Johnson Canyon Road to our planned camping spot for several nights. It was cold
and clear but so so much warmer than ten below zero. The quiet was exquisite
and the dawn everything you could hope for in a Death Valley morning.
The storm
had also moved through Southern California and brought snow to the mountains
and rain to lower elevations of Death Valley. West Side Road had standing water
in places on our drive in and washes showed signs of running water. This was a
special time to be in Death Valley and we decided to spend the day searching
for tinajas.
We explored
the broad outflow wash from Johnson Canyon.
We climbed
to the north and looked back at our lonely campsite.
The Lady's
preferred direction of travel is always up, and up we went.
We were
heading for a large outcropping of what appeared to be volcanic tuff that we
thought could hold tinajas, waters sources important to so many creatures.
Once again,
we felt like we were hitting the jackpot. Most tinajas were frozen over this
cold morning.
What did I
say about preferred direction of travel?
We spotted
another outcropping that had potential.
We just had
to figure out a route to get there.
This canyon
caught our eye.
Its steep
side canyons held tinajas, one after another.
We climbed, explored,
snacked and dozed in the sun. We could have stayed in this spot all day.
The rock to
the south was tilted layered strata that dipped under the tuff. One canyon held beautiful
sandstone. We explored.
This led up
to over lying layers of purple. The Lady could wander in the purple zone here
for days.
We explored
yet another canyon that held a long series of tinajas. We were, of course quiet
and on the watch for critters, especially sheep.
We found
sign of a bobcat moving just ahead of us.
Alas, the
first bighorn sheep we found was deceased.
We had found
several sheep beds along with fresh scat -
It starts
with an S and ends with a T
It comes out
of you and it comes out of me
I know what
you're thinking but don't call it that
Let's be
scientific and call it scat
source - 6th
grade environmental school song
At times
like this the Lady says, "Lots of sheep pellets. I want to see the
containers!"
She kept her
eye out for her bighorn buddies.
I've written
many times before about the Lady's magical association with bighorn sheep. This
trip was no exception so hang on to your hats as this story unfolds in the
upcoming parts.
We knew they
were up there, keeping an eye on us.............................
This day was
incredible giving us hours of exploration and wandering we both so enjoy. We
soaked up some sun and then headed back to camp. Much lower down we were
surprised to hear human voices. We rounded a corner and met a young man and his
mom. After one question from the young man I said, "You must be
Andrew."
A surprised
look from mom and son and a quick answer, "Yes, I am!"
We
introduced ourselves.
Andrew is a
young man just starting his college work toward a degree in geology. On top of
that, he has a close knit family that thrives on long hikes, exploration,
natural inquisitiveness, and adventure. What could be nicer than that? Andrew
has an Internet site called Exploring and Informing
Andrew, his
mom and dad, and sister headed down canyon after we said goodbye.
We headed up
and intersected a well defined old Indian trail. Several of the rock cairns
showed desert varnish that matched the surrounding rocks showing they were
placed ages ago. These old cairns should not be disturbed or added to.
"A
bighorn! " the Lady whispered as we dropped into the broad wash of Johnson
Canyon.
The large
ram moved ahead of us for several minutes as we worked our way back to camp.
From our
high perch at camp most of the Johnson Canyon Road climbing up from below was visible.
We were surprised to see a rig with a pop up camper slowly working its way up.
The truck climbed
closer and closer. We could hear the crutch of rocks under tires and the
clatter of a diesel.
Who in the
world was it on this beautiful cold Death Valley evening?
Our
adventure continues in Part Two. Please Click Here.
Fantastic trip and report!
ReplyDeleteThank you Steve!
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