Great Basin National Park - October 2020 - Part Two

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Note: please click here to go to Part One

A Visit With Old Friends

 

Tuesday morning at the trailhead looked a lot like Monday morning.

 

 

 

 

 

It was a bit cooler. The Lady wore her fleece fingerless gloves. We have hiked up to Baker Lake many times. Our first was with snow cover and the lake froze over. The bends in the trail, the grades, the landmarks, the small meadows, the huge avalanche path are now like old friends. Fall was a new season here for us. We looked forward to both the dramatic differences - color - and the subtle differences. Today would be a visit with old friends and we were so looking forward to it.

 

In the deep canyon areas along Baker Creek the aspens were regal and varied in colors.

 

 

 

 

 

Up slope on the sunny aspects the aspens were small and mostly ghost groves.

 

 

 

 

 

The morning was a wonderful climb through a corridor of color.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other fall colors were around us.

 

 

 

 

 

As we gained elevation we entered the ghost groves.

 

 

 

 

 

We were alone on the trail until reaching the huge avalanche path. Tyler (an alias) passed us, a young man obviously on a mission. He had a goal and he was making time.

 

It is always three hours to Baker Lake from the campground. The mileage given at the trailhead is a bit short. The trail has improvements and reroutes here and there. With our extra wandering and explorations, we figured this was a 14 mile day.

 

Three hours into the hike we arrived at Baker Lake.

 

 

 

 

 

The lake is very shallow and in fall it is reduced to three small ponds. It holds non native Brook Trout that, surprisingly,  survive winter kill in the shallow water. If I mentioned the size of the two char we watched, a few of you would be grabbing your fly rods right now. The water is shallow and crystal clear. Your technique and presentation would need to be careful and precise.

 

The small cirque is amazing and we took well over an hour exploring.

 

 

 

 

 

We watched Tyler descend from Pyramid Peak as we stretched out and relaxed.

 

 

 

 

 

Two anglers arrived as we relaxed. This was not a day of solitude for us. The first was a flycaster, quiet and determined. A quick hello was conversation enough for him. As we left a young man tossing hardware arrived (spin fishing outfit). It was obviously his first time here, full of questions and talk, and comforted knowing other people were around.

 

We met a large spread out group of backpackers as we returned down the trail. It turned out to be a freshman college class from Utah learning outdoor skills. Following up, doing sweep, was the instructor. We enjoyed a long pleasant conversation with the man. We shared many interests and experiences.

 

We also encountered  a group of four, stung out, coming up the trail. They were doing the "loop" to Baker Lake, up and over to Johnson Lake, and back via the Snake Divide. Julie and I both agreed they were late in the day to be considering completing the loop. We offered friendly, gentle, knowledgeable information on what was ahead for them and asked that they consider a turnaround time. We figured they would all reach what we think as the half way point - the high saddle between Baker and Johnson Lake - at around 3:30 pm. Turning around and following a trail that is familiar to you may be better than forging on into unknown terrain, especially if it's dark. But we did this four separate times because they were not traveling as a group or had communication with each other. They were not young people, but fairly fit, and enthusiastic. We heard all the usual responses. "We have headlamps. It okay if it gets dark." "What? The trail's not like this the whole way?" "No, we've never been here before." "We have the All Trails app on our phone." "It's real steep down to Johnson Lake?"

 

An earlier start would have served them well as would have a fast pace like Tyler's. It was obvious to us Tyler was doing "the loop" and he'd added a quick trip to the summit of Pyramid Peak.

 

We wished them well. We know no details about the outcome other than the vehicles at the trailhead that we most likely thought were theirs were gone later. Yes, we checked.

 

Time had gotten eaten up with the various conversations as we hiked back to camp, but we were fine with that. No need to hurry and we came back to one of our mantras, "Would we rather be here or back at camp?"

 

We were again alone on the trail and enjoyed the peaceful mosey back to the trailhead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Taking our time, we knew, also put us closer to deer thirty. We could care less about beer thirty but deer thirty is special. Sure enough, deer were appearing all around us, starting their evening activities. The Lady always enjoys seeing the big boys.

 

 

 

 

 

A group of three bucks posed on a open slope for us. The 4x3 was the largest. The classic 4x4 had a smaller rack. The fork was the young one hanging with the men and acting proud.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We stopped at the trailhead and noted the remaining vehicles and matched them - in our minds - to the people still out on the trail. We'd walk back before bed and check again. Tyler's car was easy to pick out.

 

 

 

 

 

We wondered where you can charge your Tesla in rural Nevada? The Border Inn, right on the Utah line, offers charging. Tyler was the poster child for how not to leave your vehicle at the trailhead. All of his personal gear, valuable electronics and such, were all in easy view. It was evident he'd been living on the road for several days.

 

A large van towing a utility trailer belonged to the college group.

 

The sun had set. Soft light illuminated that last patch of aspen as we finished off the last half mile to camp.

 

 

 

 

 

We were curious why Tyler had not yet returned to the trailhead. With his pace he should have already returned. What was up with Tyler? Did his fast pace give out on him? Did he decide, like us, there was no reason to hurry? Would he rather be out on the trail or back at the Border Inn?

 

After all evening chores were completed we returned to the trailhead at dark. Tyler's Tesla was gone as were the vehicles we associated with the "loop" group. Good. The Lady found that Tyler had added a note to his entry in the trailhead register.

 

"Saw 5 bucks, 4 does, 2 bambis at the SFork baker/Timber creek fork. 2 bucks bluff charged me and almost got bear sprayed. Enough yelling eventually scattered does & bucks followed."

 

 

 

 

 

Just another day in the mountains. A little more fun than usual.

 

We slept well, only waking once near midnight as a poor pilgrim drove the loops hoping for an empty campsite. Tomorrow, Wednesday, our adventure continued.

 

Our adventures in the next installment. Please click here for Part Three

Great Basin National Park - October 2020 - Part One

 please remember you can click on a photo to see a larger version & highlighted text are links to additional information

 

On The Highway Formerly Known As "The Loneliest Road In America."

 

It was late Friday afternoon. The wildfire smoke has been awful across the West, but particularly bad in California. A quick look at the weather satellite image showed that Nevada was looking much better than California. Should we head out?

 

 

 

 

We had just got off the phone with one of our best friends, also our optometrist, and scheduled eye exams next week for both of us. We decided to head to Nevada and return for our appointments. We packed the truck Saturday morning and left around one in the afternoon. Traffic usually diminishes rapidly after leaving Fallon. Not anymore and Highway 50 across Nevada is no longer the "Loneliest Road in America." Gone are the long stretches with no other vehicles in view. Gone are the near empty camping areas along the route. We did not even look at Bob Scott Campground just east of Austin to camp for the night.

We drove to a familiar spot at the top of a steep dirt two track with a tiny usable flat spot amongst the cow pies - cattle grazing country. The Lady calls it "Cow Patty Camp" and I'll not give a clue to its whereabouts. It's a great place for a quick overnight with incredible vistas. We were serenaded to sleep by coyotes while I contemplated the question, "How many cow pies does it take to make a hamburger?"  

 

Our idea that Nevada was better smoke wise was correct. It was better than at home but still significant as the Sunday morning's sunrise foretold.

 

 

 

 

 

We knew Great Basin National Park would be busy as we found most places in the West this year. With the premier Wheeler Peak Campground closed for renovations, we knew campsites in the Park would be even harder to come by so we put our plan into action. Arriving before noon Sunday morning worked like a charm. Baker Creek Campground was half full. We found our favorite campsite empty and settled in.

 

Note - the campground filled by 4 pm and people driving through hoping for a site kept up until well after dark. We stayed for three nights and it filled every day by late afternoon. All campsites in Great Basin National Park are first come.

 

 

We wandered on foot the remainder of the day. The Baker Creek trailhead is a half mile up the road. The nicest remaining aspen color was in this area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We left the trailhead the next morning around 9 am for Monday's adventure. The Lady loves to sign in at the register and check out other hikers' plans.

 

 

 

 

 

Monday's hike was a loop up the Timber Creek Trail to the Snake Divide and return via the South Fork Baker Creek Trail. It would be an easy day of around 10 miles. From our campsite it is about 2500 feet vertical gain to Snake Divide.

 

 

 

 

 

Skies at this elevation were blue to the West. South, East, and North were not near as good. We enjoy ascending the Timber Creek Trail because it goes right to work with 10 or so long switchbacks as it completes the steep climb to the upper meadows. The high country aspens were past their peak of fall colors but were still quite wondrous and delightful.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Most of the expansive aspen forests above 9500 feet were stripped of leaves and, as we like to call them, "Ghost Groves."

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a view to the West near the upper meadows of South Baker Creek. Smoke is beginning to add haze to the panoramas.

 

 

 

 

 

Pyramid Peak is the prominent summit on the left. We were last to the top in August 2019.

 

 

 

 

 

We continued the climb up to Snake Divide through more ghost groves.

 

 

 

 

 

The view from the divide down into the Snake Creek drainage was awful with smoke.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The view from the divide of the aspens along Snake Creek convinced us to make this area our destination for Wednesday. We turned around and dropped back into the head of South Baker Creek.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the photo above the view is to the north. To orient you, the return to Timber Creek is over the saddle to the Lady's right. South Fork Baker Creek is to the left. We love the large meadows at the top of Baker Creek and spent a couple of hours here exploring, snacking, and even enjoying a bit of a nap. Although the majority of the Snake Range is limestone, this area is an intrusion of granite as shown by the large boulders.

 

 

 

 

 

The area is beautiful, even with most the aspen leaves already gone.

 

 

 

 

 

After our snacks and naps, the Lady spotted something with her see mores across the meadow that she wanted to investigate.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After discovering a possible wonderful backpacking campsite and lots of elk sign, we started our descent of South Baker Creek.

 

 

 

 

 

We met back up with the hiking trail.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The aspens in this steep canyon grow tall in order to reach sunlight. They are tall, stately, and magnificent.

 

 

 

 

 

The Lady stopped at every wonderful display.

 

 

 

 

 

A small meadow is in the lower reaches of South Baker Creek canyon. Because of an interesting incident we had here one evening a few years back, we call this place "Turkey Bear Meadow." Today the meadow was in its fall glory.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

From the meadow, it is a steep drop back to the trailhead to complete our loop for the day. The most diverse aspen colors were along the trail connecting the trailhead to the campground. Therefore it took us awhile to return to our cozy campsite.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We saw only two other couples hiking, both at the trailhead. We were alone all day. There is hardly anything better than that.

 

Cleaning up, fresh clothes, dinner, a long walk in the night, and we were ready to turn in. We had a longer hike planned for Tuesday.

 

Our adventure is continued in next post. Please click here for Part Two.