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Cousins
“It’s almost done!” I exclaimed after checking the internal temperature in both the breast and thigh. The 19 pound turkey had been in the oven a little over two hours, half the cooking time we’d planned for. “Young Tom,” as Kathleen named him, was in a rush to get to the dinner table. We are seasoned backcountry travelers, so easily shifting and adjusting plans went smoothly. Young Tom reached temperature in a few more minutes. As he took his rest, the other goodies were prepared. The meal was great. And why a 19 pound turkey for four people? Leftovers is why god gave us turkey dinners. Leftovers is why god gave us freezers. A good portion of the remainder of our trip was fueled with leftovers.
We had a wonderful time with Keith and Kathleen at their winter headquarters in Green Valley. Thank you two for your hospitality, generosity, and friendship!
As we have the past few years, our next stop was to visit our cousins, Sherry and Thom, in Oracle, Arizona. This visit was profoundly different. In mid September, while Sherry was away on a trip, Thom went out on a morning ride on his horse. The word went out when, a few hours later, the horse was found riderless several miles away. Thom was found deceased later that afternoon. He was 76. Our hearts go out to Sherry and her family and we really miss Thom. Sherry’s two sisters, Angie and Carmen (all my first cousins) were out for Thanksgiving and Sherry asked if we could come and join them. Of course!
This one visit included three sisters. This was marvelous. It was an old fashion midwestern visit fest! Of note, Sherry got her sisters hooked on the British TV program The Repair Shop. We're waiting to hear about withdrawal issues after they returned home to Wisconsin.
There’s a lot of open land near Sherry’s place. We got out on walks. As always, the desert plant community amazed us.
Throw in a bedrock mortar and we get really excited.
During our visit we stayed in the comfort of our cozy camper.
Thom was an incredible artisan and their home reflects that. He built the beautiful walled patio for their backyard.
The climbing rose is from Tombstone.
Too soon and it was time to say our goodbyes. Thank you all for inviting us to join you.
Things That Go Bang in the Morning
After resupplying with groceries we needed a spot for only a night. East of Tucson and near Saguaro National Park, we drove up Reddington Road to Reddington Pass. We found a site below the final switchback. If you’re into broad vistas with city lights below, this is the place. Tucson's lights filled the valley.
We found out how popular this area was for boondocking as evening came. The sites near us quickly were taken and many other vehicles drove by as late as midnight. This was definitely not our style, but it worked for a night. Fire rings were filled with trash, a common theme here. Unfortunately, the heavy use is taking a toll.
We were up well before dawn.
Also before dawn, a white pickup drove up the road past our camp and parked in a turnout above the switchback. There were two campsites immediate below it. One campsite had a van and the second a small SUV. The shooting started as the Lady climbed out of our camper with our coffee. It was still long before sunrise. The occupant of the white pickup set up on the edge of the road with his rifle. He was quickly going through ammunition. This did not feel like merely target practice. This was meant to send a message, either emphasizing gun rights or anger at campers using the area. We continued on our morning walk - we wouldn’t waste that fresh hot Peets - and climbed down to a point that gave a nice view down into Tanque Verde Canyon. We were not concerned for our safety but this childish behavior quickly turned tiresome. Each crack of rifle shot echoed across the landscape as his shooting continued. We packed up and got a store bought breakfast down in the valley.
This day’s destination was Whitewater Draw Wildlife Area, a noted wintering ground for Sandhill Cranes. Thousands and thousands and thousands of cranes were here. Loud and noisy too. Maybe they had a family reunion going on also.
We also saw our very first Vermilion Flycatcher but at too far of a distance to attempt a photo.
Whitewater Draw is run by Arizona Game & Fish. Unfortunately, we were dismayed at the poor condition the visiting area and facilities were. Many of the signs were worn, faded, and unreadable. Every visitor registration box was empty. We could not sign in. The two wooden viewing platforms were cordoned off with caution tape and signed unsafe to use. The one vault toilet was unkempt with the toilet seats broken. We planned to spend the night here in the tiny, 4 site camping area near the parking lot. Now we did not want to and skedaddled with enough daylight remaining to find an alternate place for the night.
Cell Service
We settled into a dispersed campsite a few miles south of Patagonia.
As we climbed up out of the valley on an evening walk, the Lady’s phone came to life with several text messages. This would not be our last surprise with finding cell service in remote areas on this trip. We had sent our “camped here for the night” InReach message and friends were responding with concern we were so close to the border with Mexico. "Are you safe?" they asked. We replied that we felt safe at this campsite but knew we’d be far safer over in Mexico.
The evening color was subdued but glorious.
As we sat out in the night under the stars and hoping for shooters, we heard a series of very distant loud booms. We were concerned enough that we climbed up for cell service. We texted several friends, “Did the US go to war with Mexico?”
Answers came back to us.
“Not yet, but the orange turd that's begging to win the Nobel Peace Prize has been threatening them for months.”
“If we did, we’d lose.”
Later, I found the blasts were most likely coming from a controversial mine to the south.
The Lady wanted to go to the top of the hill above us for our morning coffee walk. Up we went on the steep switch-backing road.
The views were grand and we got a bit of exercise.
Organ Pipe National Monument
“Whoa, see that!” I said and pointed at the saguaro off the road to the north. There was no traffic on highway 86. I braked quickly to turn around.
“I saw it too,” the Lady replied. “It’s a crested saguaro!”
We safely got turned around and backtracked to a turnout close to the rare cactus.
Here’s more information on the Crested (Cristate) Saguaro.
We had four nights reserved in the campground at Organ Pipe National Monument. Many thanks to Ed & Sharon (Occidentalist Outdoors) for their campground review that helped us with selecting a campsite during the online reservation process.
We were shocked, but very pleased, to find this huge campground - over 200 sites - almost empty. At the most 20 sites were taken. There was no "reserved" sign on our post. We found the campground hosts. “It’s so slow were not putting up any reservation signs,” they explained. “Campers have their sites reserved, know the number, and can find them on their own. Make yourself at home.”
The late afternoon light caught our attention. We circled the campground on the perimeter trail and added the trail over to the visitors center.
We spent the next day hiking from the campground.
This saguaro had an odd and unique pattern in its tip.
Hiking to the southwest, we intersected with the trail that headed north (actually an old roadbed) to the Red Tanks Tinaja and the Baker Mine.
Splendidly alone, we hiked through the corridor of towering saguaro.
The Chain Fruit Cholla were also impressive.
We passed through the broad Senita Basin.
Organ Pipe Cactus now dominated the landscape.
The small basins at Red Tanks Tinaja still held water from the last rain.
We continued on toward the Baker Mine until we found a nice spot for a break before turning around.
On our return we continued south and added in a visit to the Victoria Mine.
We took in another spectacular Arizona sunset as we completed evening chores back at camp.
The full moon rose at sunset and lit up the landscape as it climbed into the sky. We carried the camera on the tripod away from the campground to take long exposure shots that would also capture the stars.
There was a breeze that blurred the palo verde trees in the photos above.
Returning to the campground, we photographed a nice Alaskan pop up camper with it’s interior lights on.
With our coffee mugs, the next morning we walked up to the summit on the Desert View Trail. Those dang saguaros kept looking so photogenic.
We had a full day of adventure ahead for us. Where were we off to next?
Our adventure continues in the upcoming Part Three
