Death Valley – February 2024 – Part Two

please remember you can click on a photo to see a larger version & highlighted text are links to additional information

Please click here for – Part One

 

Archeology and History

 

When we’ve stayed at Mesquite Springs Campground we’ve noticed a sort of notch, at least that’s what we’ve called it, in the crest of the northern Cottonwood Mountains to the west. We’ve been curious if we could find any evidence of it being used by ancient people as a crossing. We set out the next morning to find out. After crossing Death Valley Wash, we climbed into a shallow canyon that led west and up.

 

 

 

 

 

After the wash, we climbed up on the bajada and intersected several other small drainages. The notch we were curious about is directly above the Lady in the photo below.

 

 

 

 

 

It was a lot of up and down. From the point below we angled right and then up into the main drainage.

 

 

 

 

 

The Lady pointed out Fishhook Cactus (Mammillaria tetrancistra) with fruit as we climbed the bajada.

 

 

 

 

 

When we reached the main wash that drains down from the notch, we were impressed by its size. Our topo map showed that it was only 2 miles up to the saddle in the crest of the Cottonwoods.

 

 

 

 

 

A view back to the east and across the north end of Death Valley.

 

 

 

 

 

We stopped for a break and reevaluated our route. We had found nothing in the way of ancient worn paths. We found no petroglyphs or habitation sites, or hunting blinds. There were no springs. Since we had, thus far, found nothing, we decided on a change of plan and headed north and up to a distant high point to take in the view.

 

 

 

 

 

The views were quite nice as we climbed.

 

 

 

 

 

We used the long ridge line in the middle of the photo above as our route back to camp. But we were not done climbing.

 

 

 

 

 

The panorama from the top was inspiring.

 

 

 

 

 

This point was approximately a mile from where we took our break and the Lady was curious how much vertical we had climbed. I guessed 500 feet. The Lady thought it was much more and said 1000 feet. We consulted our USGS topo map. We were both surprised it was 1300 vertical feet.

 

Hiking down the ridge line turned out to be a delightful descent.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We dropped off the ridge and into the main wash and were surprised again we still had quite a ways to go before intersecting with Death Valley Wash. Distances can be quite deceiving out in this vastness.

 

 

 

 

 

When we intersected with Death Valley Wash we found that debris from this wash had effectively dammed Death Valley Wash until the flow began to cut through and around the plug.

 

 

 

 

 

Pools of water still lingered in this large, temporary impoundment.

 

 

 

 

 

Safely back at camp with supper and chores completed, we took in another evening light show.

 

 

 

 

 

The following morning, we headed south to explore two canyons that held springs on the west side of the Grapevine Mountains. We parked and worked out the easiest route up and across the broad alluvial fans.

 

 

 

 

 

Looking back, the vastness of this desert landscape is phenomenal.

 

 

 

 

 

We found and ascended the wash into the first canyon.

 

 

 

 

 

On a ridge along the wash, we found evidence of a stacked rock hunting blind.

 

 

 

 

 

Further up canyon we found additional evidence of hunting blinds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This canyon was interesting as its walls were fanglomerate.

 

 

 

 

 

All the branches also ended in box canyons with pourovers.

 

 

 

 

 

The water polished fanglomerate was quite pretty.

 

 

 

 

 

We backtracked down the canyon to where we had found a well-worn path leading to the south.

 

 

 

 

This old Indian trail was excellent and took us about three quarters of a mile along the mountain front to the next canyon we had targeted for exploration.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We came upon several chunks of limestone with vivid fossils.

 

 

 

 

 

This canyon held active springs evidenced by large dense groves of mesquite.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We soon encountered flowing water in the creek bed.

 

 

 

 

 

This was a fun canyon to attempt to explore – the mesquite and riparian vegetation became impenetrable.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We backtracked and explored other side canyons. All were impossible to penetrate due to mesquite. We found invasive fan palm and tamarisk that we reported to Park staff.

 

 

 

 

 

It was a great day wandering and exploring just to see what we might find. Back at Mesquite Campground, for our last night there, we were rewarded with the best evening light of the trip.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We left Mesquite Springs the following morning to walk in the footsteps of history. The Jayhawkers group of the Death Valley 49ers, on their escape from Death Valley stopped near McLean Spring, slaughtered their remaining oxen, burned their wagons to turn the meat into jerky, and then set out on foot. This place is called Burned Wagons Point.

 

 

 

 

 

This monument is at Stovepipe Wells. We wanted to hike out to the actual Burned Wagons Point. After parking the truck in the flats near the Devils Cornfield, we set off cross country. Our start was at an old road monument.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Prior to the current paved highways, the old original road ran south toward Furnace Creek. Sections of this old road are still, barely visible.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We left the old route after a mile or so and turned toward McLean Spring.

 

 

 

 

 

We found the sign that now marks Burned Wagons Point.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A collection of rusted metal remains is assembled here.

 

 

 

 

 

For a completely different reason I was excited to see this sign post still standing at McLean Spring. The “Burned Wagons Point” sign was added after the original pipe and sign was erected by Inyo County in the very early 1900’s. This was one of the “Desert Guide Posts” that the California Legislature approved and appropriated funds for in 1905.

 

Here is a link to one of our adventures searching for other of these guide posts – Chasing History – Death Valley – Spring Break 2016.

 

Most have been vandalized with the beautiful enamel signs stolen. One excellent example near Emigrant had the enamel sign taken just a few years ago.  A photo of it is in Part One of my blog story linked above. I have information on another possible intact guide post we will attempt to locate in the future. It is a long rugged hike – the reason it still may exist.

 

It was time to turn back north and return to the truck.

 

 

 

 

 

During our hike we came upon a tiny dinosaur, a Desert Horned Lizard hatchling. This was about the cutest tiny creature we’ve ever seen.

 

 

 

 

 

It was around mid afternoon when we reached the truck. We filled up with gas at Stovepipe, headed over Towne Pass, and dropped into Panamint Valley to spend our last night in the Park at a dispersed site along Lake Hill Road.

 

The evening light was subtle, but still very special as the day grew toward its end.

 

 

 

 

Portions of the broad playa in Panamint Valley were also flooded so our morning walk was out to the water. Evidence of recently flowing water was everywhere.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Lady insisted that we not walk around Lake Hill to return to the truck. It was more fun to go over it.

 

 

 

 

 

We packed up the truck and readied for our journey back home via highway 395. A passing storm was leaving the crest of the Sierra Nevada and Mt. Whitney as we neared Lone Pine – a classic vista we should never take for granted, no matter how many times we see it.

 

 

 

 

 

Any bets on where our next trip destination will be? We hope you enjoyed coming along with us.