We took
advantage of the switch to daylight savings time, that now extra hour of
daylight at day’s end, and pulled into Rye Patch Campground right at dark.
After a quick stop in Fernley, the Interstate deposited us at this “for sure”
overnight opportunity, a layover and launching pad for Saturday’s explorations.
The campground was quiet, just like the Interstate. With our spot, that made
five of the 22 sites occupied along the Humboldt River, more a collection of languid
pools here below the dam choking its path to its sink to the west. We took care
of set up and then walked in the night circling the campground, then climbing
back up to the dam where we stood above it all, the near full moon
extinguishing the stars as its brilliance prevailed, lighting up the broad sky
from horizon to horizon. After wandering through the deserted parking and
picnic areas, we slowly made our way back to camp. A camp trailer and a motor
home were quiet with just a soft light visible from outside. One dark car was
parked next to a table littered with an assortment of simple camp cooking
supplies. Only one camp had signs of life, a fire crackled next to a camp
trailer, voices carried in the night as did the pungent fragrance of burning
marijuana.
“Whoa, that smell
sure carries far,” I commented as the Lady drew closer. “Sure does,” she
agreed, “But it’s probably better to have mellow potheads for neighbors then campers getting loud with alcohol. At least we can sleep.”
We soon were
back in our berth and ready for sleep and the adventure ahead. This was a
celebration night, the anniversary of our first kiss 31 years before. “Well,
are you glad we kissed?” I asked as we dropped off to our dreams. “Yes,” the
Lady answered, always right to the point.
Our first
stop was along Grass Valley Road many miles south of Winnemucca.
The several
source pools are east of the road. This one looked bottomless.
Popping and
gurgling sounds brought us to this active vent.
All the
water was channeled across the road and led to a nearby ranch.
The truck
tractor with sleeper appeared to be a decoy, meant to discourage possible
soakers. Having known a trucker with a hair trigger who always slept with a
civil war style cap and ball 44 caliber “hog leg” pistol on his lap, I don’t
approach trucks like this. The 200 acre Leach Hot Springs Ranch is listed for sale along with the claim that all water rights from this spring are deeded
with the property.
Traveling
south we climbed out of Grass Valley and into Pleasant Valley, vast, empty, and
beautiful set up against the Tobin Range.
An
earthquake fault scarp/rupture runs along the base of the Tobins.
As we negotiated
our route south on dirt roads, the Lady did a great job keeping us found on the
maps. In the low hills separating Pleasant Valley from Dixie Valley we came upon
an intersection that confirmed our location. Everything had been unsigned up to this point so
this was a bit of a surprise.
Late
afternoon found us in the north end of Dixie Valley, many miles north of our
adventure into Dixie the prior weekend. A spur up from the main road brought us
to a bench at the base of the Stillwater Mountains and a perfect, lonely spot
for camp. The full moon rose in the east as we enjoyed a simple supper. In the
moonlight we walked the half mile back to the main road and then out into the
valley. The vastness settled around us. There was not a manmade light in all
the emptiness. It was silent. This is the Nevada of our dreams.
Morning was
bliss.
For our
morning coffee walk the Lady headed to a nearby canyon. It had to be explored.
We were in
no hurry to leave this place. The morning started with a low of 44°,
surprisingly warm. The Lady relaxed with her book outside as I made a special
skillet veggie scramble complete with avocado and fresh orange juice. Life
should always be this good.
The
afternoon before the Lady had spotted a distant mound on the valley floor to
the east. Consulting our 1:24000 scale topos, it was definitely worth
backtracking to find a way to it. Successful in finding and negotiating rough
4x4 roads, we parked at the base of a huge mound built from a series of mineral
rich hot springs.
This was
Hyder Hot Springs.
Our
temperature reading was 135.9°.
We were not
expecting Hyder to be as interesting and a highpoint of our trip as it turned
out to be.
This trip
took planning as the places we wanted to discover were just over the half way
point in fuel supply for the truck. We had to be sure the way was passable
ahead before reaching a point of no return. This was one of the reasons for last weekend's trip in from the south.
We headed south after stopping at Nevada’s largest geothermal electric
generating plant.
This is so
remote the plant has its own airstrip. This is a private enterprise mining the
geothermal resources deep along the Stillwater Mountains eastern fault system
with water temperatures above 260°C at 3 km. The construction of 280 miles of transmission
lines to the south enable power sales to Southern California Edison, all
possible with leases of our public lands and resources.
We had seen
many new places for us on this adventure. More importantly we had found many
more special places that will require further adventures.
It was the
middle of the afternoon when we reached highway 50. The length of Grass,
Pleasant, and Dixie Valleys had taken us 180 miles. We still had 45 miles to Fallon. After leaving the ranchette
sprawl south of Winnemucca we encountered only three vehicles. Saturday afternoon
in Grass Valley a pickup with several cowboys was heading north to Winnemucca,
possibly for a traditional weekend night in town. A car was parked at a
windmill and water tank in the southern end of Pleasant Valley. No one was visible. Sunday morning
a company truck with driver was checking out the geothermal wellheads near the
plant. His big smile and wave looked genuine and suggested he doesn’t often get
to see travelers.
Late
afternoon found us close to home but still in the Great Basin.
We chuckled
that it is rare we share this part of our trips, maybe commonplace for us, but
still a very special place.
We decided
on a quick dinner at the Lady’s favorite pizza place.
Soon we were
home, the truck and camper were cleaned out; the routine of putting everything away
well practiced. All is ready for the next adventure…………………………………
I could almost hear the deep silence of those Nevada valleys. Well done, as always -- thanks!
ReplyDeleteThanks for the kind comment Dan. The silence is incredible and should be treasured.
DeleteThe Hot Springs Ranch by Leech Hot Springs sold since your write up. The owners are friends of my wife and I. They are slowly improving the property. Their water comes from a couple of hot artesian wells, they have no water rights to the springs themselves. The springs are on land owned by a mining company. There is an agreement between my friends and the company wherein they have signed the spring area as to its dangers (they are boiling) and other minor means to protect the public.
ReplyDelete