It was
surreal. We were heading west Friday afternoon. Every mile took us further into
spring as we dropped in elevation. It was so different. The hillsides were covered in new green
grass. The trees had green leaves. Our internal calendars were no longer valid.
We were out of sync.
We were off
in search of an ocean fix, the pounding of surf, the smell of salt in the air.
Deciding on going the week of the trip put us against the wall. All campsites
were booked up. The California coast is a popular place and visiting most
places requires staying in a campground and all that brings to mind, for us at
least – close quarters with other people. It would be so different than our
recent trips into Nevada. The loss of
solitude and abundance of population was the price of admission. But the ocean
was calling.
Our friend
Ted suggested Sonoma County’s Westside Campground. It is a bit like a parking
lot but has a few non-reservation sites. It isn’t as popular as Doran or Bodega
Dunes, but is within walking distance of Bodega Head and Ted’s favorite place
to get fresh crab.
We set up in
one of the non-reserved sites and were glad we arrived around six because when
we returned from an orientation walk, we found all the sites around us had
filled in that short time.
The
campground is just south of Spud Point Marina. After a quick dinner, we walked
in the night, explored the marina and points further, and left everyone behind.
It was wonderful to take just a few steps and be alone.
The varied
assortment of fellow campers always requires a good measure of tolerance. On
our orientation - take a look around - walk we saw two large trailers in
adjoining pull throughs. They were obviously together as a large group. We
noticed faded prayer flags stretched along the awnings between the trailers and
hoped this indicated these neighbors would be interesting and cool people. As we approached in the
fading light we realized our mistake as each flag boldly read “Coors Light.” We
figured this explained the two extremes all weekend from this campsite, either deathly quiet or
full on loud.
We slept,
actually slept well through the night. On our walk with coffee Saturday morning we noticed a
nice old classic camp trailer.
The woman
was filling a water jug at the campground faucet and we fell into easy
conversation. It was a 1964 Sportsman.
She
explained how happy she and her husband were to be able to purchase it. “It was
even featured in a book about camp trailers!” she explained.
“And I have
a Scotty too!”
We got a
tour of the very well kept treasure and stories were told of all the places
they had been including Indianapolis, “For the races!”
When we
answered her inquiry, “Where are you from?” she replied, “I know where that
is!” and went on to explain she had taught school up there, started her
teaching career, and told us the name of the school. “I teach at that school,”
the Lady said. “I’ve been there for over 31 years.” A series of “Whatever
happened to?” questions were asked and answered. Reminisces filled the
conversation. Photos were taken to share with others and evidence of the chance
encounter.
We said our
goodbyes and headed out on our day’s hike. We passed a fellow at the dumpster
spooning contents of a large cooking pot into a plastic bag. I asked, “Did you
make too much or wasn’t it any good?” He looked up and smiled, “I made way too
much! It was good, but it’s always good when you’re camping!” We continued on
our way. The Lady drew close to me, “You know we’re turning into campground
people, looking at other people’s campers and talking about cooking.”
The tide was
out. We walked south along the bay as far as the University of California’s
Ecological Preserve study area. We encountered a large group; many of them were
out on the tidal plain. They were oceanography students from American River
College in Sacramento. Two young women we spoke with said they were having a
wonderful time, except for getting their shoes sucked off in the ooze.
Our next
stop was an overlook of the Hole in the Head, the proposed site of a large nuclear power plant, right atop the San Andreas Fault.
With our
twenty-twenty hind sight and several major nuclear disasters later, this proposed project is
so obviously foolish. I wonder how many of our current ideas will play out with the test
of time?
We had a
nice view of the sand bar protecting Bodega Bay from the Pacific.
We worked
our way around the edge of Bodega Head.
The Lady
took us to the highest point where a solitary raven waited.
We returned
to the edge and worked our way around making the turn to the north.
We passed
the full parking area at road’s end. It was beautiful weather on the coast. As
much as we do not like to run with a pack, this is a wonderful place. The
parking area should always be full with people enjoying our natural treasures.
We continued
north from the parking area and quickly left most behind. We stopped at the
Horseshoe Cove overlook and the view of UC Davis Marine Laboratory.
Tours are
offered of this important facility. Check ahead and make it part of your visit.
We
discovered a trail that returned us close to Westside Campground. We dropped
our packs and changed out of our hiking boots. We were going to checkout Ted’s favorite place for fresh crab for an early dinner.
The pots
were steaming outside.
The Lady
decided on the famous – winner 4 years in a row – clam chowder and I had a
crab sandwich, of course we shared.
A gentleman
provided easy listening blues on guitar and harmonica in this laid back setting.
Well fed and
happy, we rambled along the marina.
Big johnsons
were out.
A gull was
keeping a woman away from her car reminding us that the Bodega
area is where Hitchcock filmed his horror movie, The Birds.
And, it
looks like fun times are coming to Bodega.
We returned
to camp for our showers. We passed this……………………….
…………and
laughed because women see big trucks, big tires, big lifts as a man's attempt
to compensate for small size elsewhere. Me, I see it as close the American male
comes to growing antlers, all just for display.
As a safety
note, after our evening showers we found each of us had a tick attached. The
coast, especially in the spring, is a hotbed for ticks. Pay attention, learn
about ticks, and quickly remove them.
We had the
quiet of the evening –away from the campground – ahead of us. We walked north.
Crab pots were just about everywhere.
We checked
out the State Park’s Bodega Dunes Campground. There is a nice shower building. The showers are free, no coin machines, and individual rooms so we could
save water by going together. Many sites were filled by the students on the oceanography
field trip.
The light
slowly faded as we worked our way back.
Well into
the night we wandered back to the marina.
We walked
out to the end of the narrow sea wall and took in the view across the harbor.
After
another comfortable quiet night in our camper, we were again up early. It was
overcast and foggy over the water.
As we
watched the sun come up, the Lady reported that one of her students excitedly told her
we should eat at The Birds Cafe. The Lady suggested we eat breakfast out.
The café was closed
but we found the nearby Sandpiper open complete with delightful service staff.
The breakfast was very good.
We enjoyed
the rest of the day exploring the coast to the north. We looked at campgrounds
for possible future stays. We wandered along Goat Rock Beach, one of our
favorites. It is at the mouth of the Russian River. Ospreys were overhead and
Harbor Seals enjoy a protected nursery at the north end, all backlit with the
pounding surf.
This was a good ocean fix.
Looks like you had a lovely weekend at the coast and were able to stay within walking distance of such interesting sights.
ReplyDeleteMuch better weather, too, than last time I was at Bodega Bay.
Bill, we did spot check of the weather forecast. It looked good so we went for it. Bodega Dunes also looks like a good place to hike from. The long South Salmon Creek Beach is to the west and looks like a nice place to put in some "ocean time." Thanks for the comment
DeleteThere are times when enjoying the solitude is everything you could wish for, and times when people's company is a good thing. Seeing the ocean and meeting the breeze after a long time is something to be thankful for.
ReplyDelete