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The Friday
before New Years found us in our favorite spot to the east of Eureka Dunes.
With no need for fire rings, out house, or table, this spot is away from the
groups that gather at the dry campground at the north end of the dunes. It was
early afternoon. Our predawn launch from home had worked. We were alone in this
area of the dunes. We settled in.
The Barking
Spiders were along. After a couple trips to Death Valley with us, Mom Spider
wanted sand dunes. We figured the biggest dunes would work just fine. The Lady
and I have explored the area several times. This was déjà vu.
The holiday
season had been hectic for all of us. We were looking forward to a chance to relax, put the
feet up, take in the views. Well, at least as much relaxing and putting the
feet up as we are prone to do.
Our chairs
were out between our campers. We were enjoying snacks and drinks and discussing
our upcoming adventure. We watched a white Jeep Wrangler work its way around
the dunes toward us. “Why are they coming in here?” Barking asked as they turned
into our spot. He was on his feet. The Jeep stopped. Both doors
opened. The driver approached quickly and said, “Ski3pin and the Lady must be
here!” I got up and introduced the Lady and myself. “I’m Missing Link on Wander
the West,” the driver explained. His next question was delightful, “Are one of
you Ted?”
No Ted.
Barking Spider ably filled the void. It turned out the Spiders have connections
with the area the Links are from. Yes, small world. They were soon busy with
conversation.
“So, how did
you know it was us?” I asked Missing Link.
“We saw the
gray from the campground and suspected pop ups. We read about your new camper
but it was the Ranger that gave you away. Not many have Rangers.”
This was a
fun start to our adventure. We made new friends. It was interesting and
surprising that we would be recognized. It was not quite a surprise that
someone would be asking about Ted. The Teds are celebrities. We were looking
for Ted too.
We settled
in to enjoy our first night in our new camper. This was the long awaited maiden
voyage. This was very special. It was a beautiful evening. Everything was just
right thus far.
High thin
clouds obscured most of the stars. It was dark this moonless night. The Lady and I
took our night walk down the road and out into Eureka Valley past the dunes.
Several more groups had come in. Most holed up in the campground but a few just
pulled over into a pull out. Of course there were those that ignored the rules
and drove off road out across the flats and set up camp. Soon dogs were running
loose and illegal fires were blazing. The temperature was warm, in the low
thirties.
Morning
dawned clear with a low of 27° and little wind. It was amazing weather.
Our first
objective for the day was the dunes.
We continued
up.
We were soon
on the top.
The Spiders
returned to camp the way we came. The Lady & I continued south on the crest
of the high dunes.
The texture
and movement of the sand is amazing. Slow avalanches moved down slope from the
crest.
It was
captivating, the smooth sensuous undulations of the sand below us.
It is way
too easy to think of dunes as lifeless. It is far from the case. Tracks in the dark dust
blown from the hills to the west gives evidence of all the life that makes this
place home.
We took a
break on the south summit, alone. We continued south as the ridge line dropped
to meet the seldom explored southern dunes. We stopped and watched sand move
down slope ahead of us, unassociated with our movement. It sang. This was our
first time experiencing the magic of singing dunes.
This area of
the dunes is rarely visited and quiet. We continued to drop.
We were
making a large circle back to camp. We discovered this on the east flanks of
Eureka Dunes.
Sara with
USGS provided the following information:
“Your photo
of the instrumentation is rather artistic - I never thought of it that way. I
am also happy to see that everything looks like it is in good condition. We
are currently conducting a study of the dune grass and evening primrose growing
on the dunes and their response to varying environmental conditions. You may
have read about these species on the interpretive sign near the bathroom out at
the Eureka Dunes. The instrumentation you photographed extends underground and
measures soil moisture, so we can assess how it changes with precipitation
events. Last year was a spring of very poor rainfall, so we are hoping for a
good contrasting year this spring.”
The uniqueness
of this very special area always amazes. In this relatively untouched land new
discoveries are possible around every corner. The Eureka Dunes and all of Death
Valley National Park is full of possibilities. With the growing number of visitors, it
becomes more important to limit our individual impacts and leave no trace. Because
of the ignorance we witnessed by some backcountry users, I am a supporter of annual backcountry camping permits required for camping outside of
established campgrounds. Its purpose would be education. Unfortunately it
appears that most rarely visit the Backcountry Camping page on the DVNP website
or the information on dogs.
We
headed back toward our camp.
When
we reached camp, the Spiders were ready to go. There were canyons to explore!
We picked one and headed up the alluvial fan.
It
looked like it was right there, so close. Explore the backcountry of Death Valley
and you soon discover distances are under estimated as is the amount of
elevation change. We soon cranked off two miles and were far above the height
of the dunes.
We
encountered a pour over around the first corner.
Barking
and the Lady were soon at the top of the second, very interesting, pour over.
This
would be our turn around. They reported another higher pour over with an
overhang immediately above. I could tell Barking was kicking himself for not
having his climbing shoes along.
What
climbs up must climb down.
The
sun was low as we exited the canyon and started back to camp.
The night
was clear. During dinner we joked about the incident of the night before. For
the Lady and my night walk we headed south. Tonight the sky was clear. We gave
our eyes time to adjust and walked without headlamps. Night is half the day. We
find it essential to quietly wander as far from camp as possible in the dark.
There is a whole new world out there to experience.
Sunday
morning we packed up and headed into Death Valley proper. One of my earliest
memories of desert travel is this lonely crossroads with an intriguing name.
Someone
has placed new artwork dated 2012
We
were at the top of Death Valley itself. A long road led south into the depths
of the valley and onward into our déjà vu adventure.
Our adventure continues in Part Two.
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