Monday, March 10, 2025

Death Valley & Valley of Fire – December 2024 & January 2025 – Part Two

please remember you can click on a photo to see a larger version & highlighted text are links to additional information

Please click here for Part One

 

Solitude & Rejuvenation

 

Yes, we were staying in a campground and expected the usual noise and lights associated with close proximity to humans; the intrusion of city into the outdoors. But add the large screen TV to Bubba and his umbilical cord hooked to the generator and we needed a reprieve of piece and solitude. We knew where we could find it. We’d be greatly surprised if we would encounter other hikers where we were off to. We left from camp with our full daypacks but still wearing the light hiking shoes.

 

 

 


 

 

After a section of cross-country travel, we intersected the Prospect Trail.

 

 

 


 

 

The trail climbs to a pass in the wonderful red Aztec sandstone of Valley of Fire.

 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

Red is the classic color for this sandstone but we were looking for sandstone a bit more colorful.

 

We continued down the trail – in most places in a wash – until we found the sandstone changing.

 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

We turned up a side canyon, off trail, climbed out, and entered a playground of beautiful rock.

 

 

 


 

 

Campground antics were quickly forgotten. We were again at peace and spent the day wandering in this remarkable wonderland.

 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

It was a glorious day of solitude, the two of us completely alone.

 

 

 


 

 

Our route was a wide arc to the north and we looped back around to intersect the trail. We again ran into large gullies that cut through the bajada.

 

 

 


 

 

We climbed higher to go around and finally intersected with the trail.

 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

Back at camp the TV screen was gone but Bubba’s generator still marked their territory – and all of ours too with its roar. We were growing tired of other campers complaining to us about it. It was our last night in Atlatl Campground and we were leaving in the morning. We again escaped the campground with a long night walk hoping, dear god, that the Bubbas turned in early and it would be quiet when we returned.

 

We discussed several options on where to head next. A remote spot in the backcountry of Death Valley National Park won. This place is hard to get to and takes determination to reach, including driving through miles of bottomless silt.

 

 

 


 

 

We were very impressed with how little dust intruded into the camper. We were perched on the crest of the mountain range with a view down into the heart of Death Valley.

 

 

 


 

 

The last light of the day was incredible as we wandered before making dinner.

 

 

 


 

 

We were perched on the very edge of a deep canyon. We’ve been here before and know the area well. We’ve climbed down into the canyon and walked it all the way down and out of the canyon. This is a special place.

 

 

 


 

 

The route down into the canyon is a steep use trail down to a prospect that hangs on the canyon wall. The trail was marked by the prospectors – years and years ago- with brush strokes of white paint. They don’t make paint like this anymore and I suspect the prospectors over marked their trail so they could easily find it in the dark.

 

 

 


 

 

We’d tackle the trail in the morning. Tonight, we enjoyed the evening.

 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

It rained overnight. The ground was wet and dark around the camper in the morning. A strong clearing north wind blew.

 

 

 


 

 

We needed real boots to make the climb into the canyon. I laced up my high top boots for the first time since the fall. My left ankle was still tender. The Lady noticed my tentative steps as we started down and was concerned with my steadiness.

 

 

 


 

 

Besides the steep dangerous terrain, the hard wind was upsetting our balance and attempting to blow us off our feet. And the cold bit into us. We sadly, but wisely, aborted our climb to the bottom. Instead, we made a wide arc around the convoluted head of the canyon with so many side canyons draining into it.

 

 

 


 

 

The wind remained vicious. We both remarked, “You know, we can find someplace warmer.” We returned to the truck.

 

 

 


 

 

We had a wonderful warm place in mind that helped make the decision easier. After the long drive out, we overnighted at a familiar spot outside of Beatty. Here’s evening color over Daylight Pass.

 

 

 


 

 

Oh, what a wonderful and soothing warm place we found. Years dropped away along with cares and aches and pains. Rejuvenation enveloped us. Any thought of being “our age” vanished.

 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

May we never wake from this dream.

 

Death Valley & Valley of Fire – December 2024 & January 2025 – Part One

please remember you can click on a photo to see a larger version & highlighted text are links to additional information

 

The Fall

 

After a week back home and with chores completed, it was again time to leave. Our first overnight was at a hidden away campsite we enjoy deep in the Volcanic Tablelands. The next morning, we were off on a search for yet another rock art site.

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

Our destination was 1.5 miles cross country from where we parked the truck. Although this area appears flat, it is bisected by long cliff bands of Bishop Tuff.

 

 

 

 


 

 

It was a cold, beautiful winter morning. Storm clouds shrouded the soaring wall of the Sierra Nevada to the west. I followed the Lady down a cleft in a cliff band. Suddenly I was falling to my left. It was instant. I had no idea of the cause but suspected a rock rolled underfoot. I looked where I would land and pulled my left arm quickly into my side. I do not break arms by sticking one out to break a fall. I hit on my arm and left side on a downward sloping pile of rubble. My left ankle dropped in between rocks. Rabbit brush hid the fall from the Lady’s view, but she knew I went down.

“Are you okay?” she called as she hurried back up to me.
“I don’t know yet. I am doing inventory.”

“Well, you’re alive and have an open airway. You are talking.”

“Yup. No head injuries. I took the fall on my left side, arm and ribs. My left ankle has rock rash but nothing broke. Left arm is probably deeply bruised. Ribs are intact.”

The Lady helped me get upright. At the base of the cliff, I pulled my sock off and exposed the ankle. Abrasion was the only visible damage. There was no swelling but I expected the bone was bruised. I was covered with dry bits of rabbit brush.

“You know,” the Lady offered as she brushed me off. “At our age we really need to watch falling.”

“Well then,’ I replied, “I’m damn glad we are not ‘our age’ because that fall could have killed me if we were.”

“After we get back to the truck and you sit for a while, I bet you get really stoved up,” the Lady observed.

“’I’m so looking forward to that, thank you very much. Good thing we’ve got a tub at Benton for tonight.”

The tub whisperer had scored once again.

 

“Well,” the Lady continued. “We better get going and keep moving so you don’t get stoved up out here.”

 

We continued on and searched cliff bands for petroglyphs.

 

 

 

 


 

 

We found the three panels and more.

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

The storm was moving toward us as we worked our way back to the truck. Wind and cold cut into our faces.

 

 

 

 




We stopped in Bishop for supplies. As I exited our truck, I noticed the left sleeve of my Pendleton wool shirt was glued to the back of my arm. I suspected it was blood and told the Lady as I carefully pulled my shirt off. The Lady grabbed the shirt, turned the sleeve inside out, picked up her water bottle, and said, “This blood should come out with cold water.” As she started to work, I added, “How ’bout we look at my arm first and get it cleaned and bandaged?”

“Oh, yeah, we probably should look at that first,” she agreed. “Get your first aid kit from your pack.”

It was minor and was easily bandaged. Ramifications from the fall would plague me the rest of this trip.

 

The next morning, we drove over Westgard Pass to highway 95, turned south and returned to the Nevada Triangle of Death Valley National Park. On our last trip the issue with the loose stabilizer bar link cut our explorations short. We arrived at the Strozzi Ranch site in the late afternoon. We set up camp at road’s end along the line of old apple trees. The temperature was 32°.

 

 

 

 


 

 

The big sage and rabbitbrush was chest high and nearly impenetrable. This hindered our explorations to staying on the roads. We walked down to the old ranch buildings dating from the first half of the 20th century.

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

There was a collapsed rock building that possibly dates earlier.

 

 

 

 


 

 

The temperature, with the sunset, plummeted but we kept moving and exploring. Up another canyon we found a possible shelter site that had been turned into a primitive corral.

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

We continued up this side canyon to the end of the road and  turned around and returned to our camper. The temperature had dropped to 23°.

 

 

 

 


 

 

It was a quiet cold night. We slept like death. On our morning wander with deliciously hot coffee, I made the comment that we did not have to stay in this cold, we could go somewhere warmer. “Warmer” felt like a much much better decision.  

 

We had camping reservations for two nights – January 1st and 2nd – at our favorite campsite in Atlatl Campground in Nevada’s Valley of Fire State Park. For the night of News Years Eve, we returned to Buffington Pockets and arrived late afternoon.

 

 

 

 


 

 

After a night blessedly alone out here, we wandered at dawn the following morning through the amazing sandstone.

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

We completed a loop and returned to the truck but the Lady wanted to keep going.

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

We climbed down into a deep gully.

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

After exiting the gully, the Lady climbed up to a possible shelter site.

 

 

 

 


 

 

This site was immediately above the road. The Lady reported, if there once were pictographs, they were now covered by recent spray can graffiti. Unfortunately, this area is close to the urban sprawl of Las Vegas.

 

After breakfast we started on a quick hike to the top of the prominent peak capped with dark limestone in the upper right of the photo below. Because my left ankle still hurt from the fall, we wore our light hikers as it was too painful to lace up my high-top boots.

 

 

 

 


 

 

The sandstone colors and patterns were incredible.

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

Since the fall, everyday brought a new pain, often in places I believed had to be unrelated to the hit. Today, on this hike, my right thigh wanted to seize up. Why my right side? I hit on the left side. “I’m not surprised at all,” the Lady counseled, “You fell hard and twisted all over. You should hurt bad and be happy you’re not dead.”

“I’m happy I’m not dead every day. Nothing to do with falling. I’m told there’s a lot you can’t do after you’re dead.”

It would be best to turn around and we did.

 

 

 

 


 

 

Taking a different route back we discovered surprising obstacles we needed to get around such as this impressive gorge.

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

The Lady put her seek app to work with plant identification.

 

 

 

 


 

 

Coyote Brush (Baccharis pilularis)

 

 

 

 


 

 

“I can see our house from here!” I Lady announced.

 

 

 

 


 

 

We worked out a route.

 

 

 

 


 

 

Although it was a much more roundabout route back, it was lots of fun. We discovered a partially buried fossilized alien head.

 

 

 

 


 

And more spectacular Aztec sandstone.

 

 

 

 


 

 

We were packed up by late morning and began our drive out enroute to Valley of Fire. This was our first time entering the state park through the west entrance, the direct route from Las Vegas. Yes, it was New Years Day but crawling along in stop and go traffic for well over an hour, we thought, was excessive. But people watching was pure bliss. “These are not real people,” the lady remarked. “They are all cartoon people.” A funny, repeated occurrence was when the CXT restroom at the entrance gate came into view. Vehicle doors flew open and people – wearing entirely inappropriate footwear – would make a run for it. Most looked like they had never run before in their lives. “And they’re off!” I’d cry in my best horse race announcer voice, looking in the rearview mirrors and seeing doors fly open. They all passed our truck on the way to relief. Hell, we were in Nevada. Why not sport betting on all the races we watched?

 

“Well, you two are the only people laughing when driving up to the booth today,” the young man at the entrance station told us. We filled him in on all our observations and asked how his day was going with the crowds and if people were remaining polite with him. He thanked us for the small bit of sanity we brought to his day.

 

We settled into our campsite amid the soaring red sandstone walls.

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

Although we were staying in a campground, as much as possible we walked away in search of peace and quiet.

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

Peace and quiet was not an option at the campground. Half the campground has sites with hook ups for RV’s – water and electricity. They cost a bit more for these conveniences. Mr. & Mrs. Bubba had their trailer set up in a non-hook up site. No need to pay extra for quiet power, they had their generator. And Bubba, being Bubba, had gone big and purchased the largest yellow generator he could buy at the big box.  Bubba placed it up against the sandstone wall as far as the big cord would reach. It roared constantly whenever the Bubbas were in camp except during quiet hours when generators are prohibited from 10 pm to 6 am. The Bubbas watched their clocks and complied with the rules. Other campers were, understandably, angry about the noise and stink. We suspect the poor camp host was getting an ear full. We heard rumors about setting up a “go fund me” for a new spark plug. Bubba rode his generator hard and put it away wet. Some suggested paying for a hook up site for the Bubbas, but no way would Bubba move to a high-priced campsite he didn’t need.

 

We returned from our night walk well away from the campground and made a wide arc around the Bubbas. But, as we neared our campsite, generator noise increased. Strange, foreign noises also increased along with flickering moving light that reflected off the sandstone walls. What in the world was going on? A large motorhome was backed into the non-hook up site across from us. Their loud onboard generator was operating at full rpm’s. A back panel was open on the rear side of the RV revealing a huge large screen television screen for outside viewing. It was on and the sound was up to full volume so it could be heard over the generator on the opposite side. It was too cold for the viewers to sit so they stood, ran in place to warm up, and shouted at each other over the noise.

 

I don’t remember much about sleeping that night but I do remember Julie closing the opaque window flaps on the TV side of our tiny camper. We woke the next morning before the 6 am alarm went off down at Bubbas. Our favorite campsite has a secret back door, a slot canyon exit and entrance. Coffee was ready. We escaped.

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 


 

 

We walked around Arch Rock and then returned via the main road and stopped at the Atlatl Rock petroglyphs. We were completely alone out here.

 

 

 

 


 

 

 


 

 

The sun was fully up when we returned to camp for breakfast and to get ready for a long hike that would take us away to a place of solitude in this very busy state park.

 

 

 


 

 

Our adventure continues. Please click here for Part Two.