please remember you can click on a photo to see a larger version
Wapiti at
breakfast
We continued
east on highway 6 but took a short detour south to visit Lunar Crater. This
impressive crater from a violent volcanic explosion is a National Natural Landmark.
Here are two videos for an overview of the crater and the area to the north.
We found
Easy Chair Crater a more enjoyable visit and the higher perch allowed a better
view of the surrounding landscape. Easy Chair was a symmetrical volcanic cone
that blew out from the side, reminiscent of Mount Saint Helen's eruption in 1980.
It's remains resemble an easy chair. It is visible across the valley in the
second video, above.
The views
are outstanding and I expect that most of you have noticed the reoccurring theme
of thunderstorms around us, already this
early in the day.
We had fun
with a perfectly camouflaged horned lizard that loved to pose for photographs.
This section
of Nevada east on highway 6 was new terrain for us and we enjoyed our first glimpse.
We discussed that seductive name and our planned trip there. As we crossed
Railroad Valley and the Egan Range the sky was black with storm. We drove in
and out of rain. This weather trend looked like it would continue, in contrast
to the forecasts I had seen prior to leaving home.
Our
discussions continued and knowing enough about the primitive roads we would
travel on, the real possibility of wet slimy Nevada gumbo did not look
attractive or wise. It was time for plan B.
The Lady has
been reading and rereading Gretchen Baker's Guide to Great Basin National Park.
We also follow Gretchen's blog - Desert Survivor
There are
several trails and hikes on the Lady's wish list. Could we be so gutsy as to
think we could drive into one of America's National Parks in the middle of the
Memorial Day Weekend and expect to find a campsite? You bet. I even knew two
out of the five campgrounds were closed.
We arrived
around 3:30 pm at the tail end of an impressive thunderstorm and snagged site 3. Out of 38 sites around 8 were available.
Site 3 is very nice.
The
campground did fill around 6:30 pm but there were plenty of overflow campsites
available down the road at Grey Cliffs Campground. The campground sits at 7500
feet in the broad Baker Creek Valley. We walked the trail up to the Baker Creek
Trailhead, about a mile up from our campsite. The open areas were ablaze with the
yellow flowers of the Arrowleaf Balsamroot.
Monday
morning we were up before the sun. The Lady got me out of the camper so her
ritual fussing could begin. I wandered out to the road to the trailhead and was
infatuated with the sun's first light on the sea of balsamroot.
I could
smell the aroma of Peets coffee a hundred yards away. It was time to get back
to the camper, very spoiled boy that I am.
I put our
chairs alongside our camper and watched the high hillside above us, lit with
the morning sun. I was ready for when they appeared. The Lady joined me with
our breakfast of fresh strawberries and goat meal. The five male wapiti were in
a line, the grayer old guy was leading, his head already heavy with a large
rack in felt. It took all of breakfast and a second cup of coffee for them to
graze all the way across the slope and disappear into the Mountain Mahogany and
Pinyon pine. Wapiti at breakfast; a good start to a day in Nevada's high
country.
The Lady was
in charge on this one. This was her day. Three trails take off from the Baker
Creek trailhead at 8000 feet - Timber Trail, South Fork Baker Creek Trail, and
the Baker Lake Trail. The Lady wanted to know if we could make it to Baker
Lake, the high country was still covered with a mantle of snow. There was no
better way to know then to try. Up we hiked.
The aspens
at 8000 feet were just leafing out.
What an
amazing place to spend the day!
Gaining
elevation was like going back in time. 500 feet higher and back to an earlier time
in spring and the aspens had no leaves. It occurred to me that using the
lifespan of an aspen leaf as a measure of time would be a darn good way to
live.
We
encountered snow at 9000 feet. Coverage grew as we continued to climb.
We were
within a mile of Baker Lake when we stopped at 10,000 feet. The snow was now
continuous, deep, soft, miserable to move across. Even on snowshoes or skis
it would have been difficult. It had not froze overnight here. Postholing in deep
snow is not fun and can be dangerous with the possibility of hitting buried rocks or downed timber. It
was time to turn around. The Lady was not disappointed, now we had time to hike
and check out the other two trails!
We descended
back down to Baker Creek. I shot a short video to give you a feeling of this
wonderful place in Nevada's high mountains.
We continued
down the Baker Lake Trail.
About three
miles down there is a new cutoff trail over to the South Fork Baker Creek
Trail. The intersection is at a high mountain meadow just coming to life with spring.
We climbed
up the South Fork Trail in hopes the snow would allow us to reach the high
intersection with the Timber Trail. We did cross several snow patches but the
way was fairly clear.
The Timber
Trail climbs an addition 400 feet and tops out on the saddle between South Fork
Baker Creek and the Snake Creek drainage to the south. Deep snow stopped us just
short of the ridgeline. We returned back down.
There is a
high open meadow complex at the Timber Creek - South Fork Baker Creek trails
intersection. The views here are fantastic.
Pyramid Peak
is to the left and Wheeler Peak (second highest in Nevada) it to the right.
When the
Wheeler Peak Road opens later in the year, also the high Wheeler Peak
Campground, most of the hiking use moves over to that area with most wanting to
try and reach Wheeler Peak. We've been on the summit of Wheeler five times. It
is well worth it. But after our time up here, this area is well worth visiting
and offers much more solitude.
We met a
family of five, parents with three young children. All were in light clothes
and very light tennis shoes, meant more for fashion than walking. Only the
father carried a small pack. We were so happy to see them out with the kids,
who, by the way, were good strong hikers, excited, happy, and no whining. But,
we were a bit apprehensive about their preparedness. We talked with them at the
intersection. They were returning to the trailhead via the Timber Trail. I
asked that they be mindful of the snow as the topo map indicated most of the
high part of the trail was on shady slopes.
They set out
but soon returned. We remained at the meadow - enjoying one of our "would
we rather be here or back at camp" moments. They shared their story of
snow banks higher than them and plunging up to their waists when they tried to
cross.
"We're
going back the way we came!" the mother and father said.
"So
will we," we replied. "We'll be along behind you in a bit. We are not
ready to leave here yet."
Later in the
afternoon we started down.
For a Monday
night, we were surprised how busy the campground was. We expected it to be
empty after the holiday. There were still many open campsites available but we
were really pleased that the public is visiting this very special National Park.
Monday gave us our only evening color of the trip.
It had been
a great day of hiking, covering around 15 miles.
The birds
started up with their songs around 4:30 am Tuesday morning. We had our windows open. The
overnight low was only down to 44°. We lay in bed and laughed. The birds
sounded so happy. The loudest and most predominant was a robin. This robin
never stopped singing.
Is it common
practice for a robin to perch on one leg to sing?
It was time
to head home. Alas, that place with the seductive name, that I'm kindly sparing
you from, will have to wait. But we, for damn sure, will be dreaming of
visiting there every single day until we do. It haunts our thoughts.
It was a
beautiful Tuesday morning as we dropped down into the Snake Valley from Great
Basin National Park, a perfect morning to stop at the Baker Archeological Site.
This is the
western edge of the realm of the Fremont Culture and explains the Fremont style
pictographs found in the Park.
Also visible
in the photo is the predominance of the invasive species - cheat grass, the scourge of the west. It is now drying out and is rose in color. Driving home back across Nevada, it
was easy to see everywhere. It is now so dominant. Devastating fires across Nevada's Gold Butte
area and California's Mojave Desert (including Joshua Tree National Park) are
directly linked to this invasive plant.
The lady had
much fun with the abundance of these little critters, these little dinosaurs
We enjoyed
our trip home on highway 50. Highway 6 has its pluses and is a great route
across Nevada but highway 50 will remain our favorite. Weather was finally
warming and the threat of thunderstorms was diminishing.
We relaxed
and enjoyed the journey. At one point the Lady noticed a nest in a power pole as we drove.
"Baby ravens! They have baby ravens!"
The parent
was disturbed that we stopped and let us know. We left them in peace.
We had to
stay out one more night in the Nevada we love. We could get home in the
morning, no need to hurry. We headed south from Eastgate on the road over
Buffalo Summit. We found a primitive two track spur road that had just the
right lonely spot.
Geology and
wildlife was all around us.
There is no
better place to wake up quiet and alone than somewhere out on the ocean of
sage.
What a trip!
After an experience like this, I expect most of you know how hard it is to get
back to work, get in the groove, the routine. Thoughts of going places, seeing
something new haunts you. Especially a place with such a seductive name...............................................
Forgive me,
but I am going to leave you with one last tease. If you know us and have done
some reading here on this blog, you know we enjoy remote natural hot springs -
another of Nevada's treasures. They are always on our radar to search out. Well
somewhere out in the middle of Nevada, one quiet morning on this trip, before
the thunderstorms soaked the roads and turned them to slime, we checked out
some place new..............................................
You might
think me awful, but remember most of the fun is in the search and the success
of finding some secret place out there on your own. Good luck and happy
adventures!
I can see why the robin made you laugh -- that was a vehement song! More fine adventures!
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