Great Basin National Park - October 2020 - Part Three

 

please remember you can click on a photo to see a larger version & highlighted text are links to additional information

Note: Please click here for Part Two

 

The Color of Autumn

 

We packed up camp after breakfast Wednesday morning and drove south to the Snake Creek drainage. It had been several years since we'd been up this dirt road and were very pleased with the improvements the National Park has completed. Campsites have been designated and improved. CXT toilets have been installed. Trailheads have hardened parking areas and signage. Many new trails have been created. Bravo to the Park Service for good work. We parked at the trailhead at road's end.

 

 

 

 

 

Where to go? We had no plans, we just wanted to explore, stretch the legs a bit more and oil the joints. Only two other vehicles were parked. We decided on making a loop by taking the new trail up to Dead Lake and coming back down the Johnson Lake Trail. The sky was surprisingly clear this morning with scattered clouds. It was looking like a beautiful day to be in the mountains. The Lady, of course, signed the trail register.

 

 

 

 

 

The aspens were very nice on the steep grade up to Dead Lake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Many times we felt ghosts were watching us.

 

 

 

 

 

To add to the aura of spookiness, Dead Lake was dead, only a shallow remnant.

 

 

 

 

 

We intersected with the Johnson Lake Trail after a bit under 3 miles and then climbed a high knob for a relaxing break. We found the perfect granite boulder for a backrest and just looked up and enjoyed a smoke free blue sky above us.

 

 

 

 

 

We've been to Johnson Lake before and decided not to return because we were enjoying solitude. The other hikers had gone to Johnson Lake - the popular destination from the trailhead. We did hike up to the old mill site about .8 mile from Johnson Lake.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice interpretive signs have been installed explaining the mining history.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We turned back and descended the Johnson Lake Trail.

 

 

 

 

 

Ghost groves lined the slopes below Snake Divide, where we had enjoyed the views from on Monday.

 

 

 

 

 

The trail passed through one spectacular grove, the highlight of the hike.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here's a view back up the trail through the aspens.

 

 

 

 

 

Many other colorful groves dotted the hillsides.

 

 

 

 

 

Towering aspens lined Snake Creek as we neared the trailhead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are 7 or 8 designated campsites along the road - and Snake Creek - below the road's end. Only one campsite was taken when we drove up in the morning. With so few people out hiking, we mistakenly thought most campsites would be available on our drive back down. Only one was not taken - this spot must be on some free camping app - but we considered it the best one.

 

 

 

 

 

We considered just popping the top and staying at the trailhead but the regulations posted on the signs clearly said camping in designated campsites only. We were good. This is a great little National Park and we wanted to be exceedingly respectful.

 

There was a spring across from camp and we scoured the area in the evening looking for petroglyphs and habitation sites without success. The area had the proper juju.

 

Thursday was a day of driving, time to work our way home. In the middle of Nevada we took a dirt road over the crest of the Toiyabe Range, east to west. We stopped at the top.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There are many dispersed sites along the creek draining the west side. But it is big game hunting season in Nevada. We found one empty, pleasant site in the higher reaches of the canyon. It was empty because it was above where a trailer can be hauled to along with additional trailers to haul in ATV's and Utv's. When did hunting become sitting on your butt, driving around on a machine with a rifle, up and down roads hoping to find something to shoot and kill? These hunters sure must enjoy noise and dust.

 

We were concerned road traffic, engine whine, and dust would be intolerable, but it stopped early and we had a quiet, pleasant night.

 

We got an early start the next morning. The big hunting camps lined the canyon below us. It was hunter heaven. Camp trailers, fifth wheels, motorhomes, Atv's covered huge areas. Big belly boys relaxed in camp chairs.

 

The morning was warm. We lowered the windows and returned waves from the hunters. We broke into our favorite hunting song from the Da Yoopers.

 

"It's the second week of deer camp

and all the guys are here.

We drink, play cards, and shoot the bull

but never shoot no deer.

The only time we leave the camp

is when we go for beer.

It's the second week of deer camp,

it's the greatest time of year!"

 

Back on the not so lonely highway 50, we entered the urban sprawl that now starts at Silver Springs and stopped and picked up groceries for home at Trader Joe's in Carson City. Next stop were our eye exams in South Lake Tahoe and our trip was complete - an autumn color trip brought about by a satellite image and an eye exam.

 

 

Great Basin National Park - October 2020 - Part Two

 please remember you can click on a photo to see a larger version & highlighted text are links to additional information

Note: please click here to go to Part One

A Visit With Old Friends

 

Tuesday morning at the trailhead looked a lot like Monday morning.

 

 

 

 

 

It was a bit cooler. The Lady wore her fleece fingerless gloves. We have hiked up to Baker Lake many times. Our first was with snow cover and the lake froze over. The bends in the trail, the grades, the landmarks, the small meadows, the huge avalanche path are now like old friends. Fall was a new season here for us. We looked forward to both the dramatic differences - color - and the subtle differences. Today would be a visit with old friends and we were so looking forward to it.

 

In the deep canyon areas along Baker Creek the aspens were regal and varied in colors.

 

 

 

 

 

Up slope on the sunny aspects the aspens were small and mostly ghost groves.

 

 

 

 

 

The morning was a wonderful climb through a corridor of color.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other fall colors were around us.

 

 

 

 

 

As we gained elevation we entered the ghost groves.

 

 

 

 

 

We were alone on the trail until reaching the huge avalanche path. Tyler (an alias) passed us, a young man obviously on a mission. He had a goal and he was making time.

 

It is always three hours to Baker Lake from the campground. The mileage given at the trailhead is a bit short. The trail has improvements and reroutes here and there. With our extra wandering and explorations, we figured this was a 14 mile day.

 

Three hours into the hike we arrived at Baker Lake.

 

 

 

 

 

The lake is very shallow and in fall it is reduced to three small ponds. It holds non native Brook Trout that, surprisingly,  survive winter kill in the shallow water. If I mentioned the size of the two char we watched, a few of you would be grabbing your fly rods right now. The water is shallow and crystal clear. Your technique and presentation would need to be careful and precise.

 

The small cirque is amazing and we took well over an hour exploring.

 

 

 

 

 

We watched Tyler descend from Pyramid Peak as we stretched out and relaxed.

 

 

 

 

 

Two anglers arrived as we relaxed. This was not a day of solitude for us. The first was a flycaster, quiet and determined. A quick hello was conversation enough for him. As we left a young man tossing hardware arrived (spin fishing outfit). It was obviously his first time here, full of questions and talk, and comforted knowing other people were around.

 

We met a large spread out group of backpackers as we returned down the trail. It turned out to be a freshman college class from Utah learning outdoor skills. Following up, doing sweep, was the instructor. We enjoyed a long pleasant conversation with the man. We shared many interests and experiences.

 

We also encountered  a group of four, stung out, coming up the trail. They were doing the "loop" to Baker Lake, up and over to Johnson Lake, and back via the Snake Divide. Julie and I both agreed they were late in the day to be considering completing the loop. We offered friendly, gentle, knowledgeable information on what was ahead for them and asked that they consider a turnaround time. We figured they would all reach what we think as the half way point - the high saddle between Baker and Johnson Lake - at around 3:30 pm. Turning around and following a trail that is familiar to you may be better than forging on into unknown terrain, especially if it's dark. But we did this four separate times because they were not traveling as a group or had communication with each other. They were not young people, but fairly fit, and enthusiastic. We heard all the usual responses. "We have headlamps. It okay if it gets dark." "What? The trail's not like this the whole way?" "No, we've never been here before." "We have the All Trails app on our phone." "It's real steep down to Johnson Lake?"

 

An earlier start would have served them well as would have a fast pace like Tyler's. It was obvious to us Tyler was doing "the loop" and he'd added a quick trip to the summit of Pyramid Peak.

 

We wished them well. We know no details about the outcome other than the vehicles at the trailhead that we most likely thought were theirs were gone later. Yes, we checked.

 

Time had gotten eaten up with the various conversations as we hiked back to camp, but we were fine with that. No need to hurry and we came back to one of our mantras, "Would we rather be here or back at camp?"

 

We were again alone on the trail and enjoyed the peaceful mosey back to the trailhead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Taking our time, we knew, also put us closer to deer thirty. We could care less about beer thirty but deer thirty is special. Sure enough, deer were appearing all around us, starting their evening activities. The Lady always enjoys seeing the big boys.

 

 

 

 

 

A group of three bucks posed on a open slope for us. The 4x3 was the largest. The classic 4x4 had a smaller rack. The fork was the young one hanging with the men and acting proud.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We stopped at the trailhead and noted the remaining vehicles and matched them - in our minds - to the people still out on the trail. We'd walk back before bed and check again. Tyler's car was easy to pick out.

 

 

 

 

 

We wondered where you can charge your Tesla in rural Nevada? The Border Inn, right on the Utah line, offers charging. Tyler was the poster child for how not to leave your vehicle at the trailhead. All of his personal gear, valuable electronics and such, were all in easy view. It was evident he'd been living on the road for several days.

 

A large van towing a utility trailer belonged to the college group.

 

The sun had set. Soft light illuminated that last patch of aspen as we finished off the last half mile to camp.

 

 

 

 

 

We were curious why Tyler had not yet returned to the trailhead. With his pace he should have already returned. What was up with Tyler? Did his fast pace give out on him? Did he decide, like us, there was no reason to hurry? Would he rather be out on the trail or back at the Border Inn?

 

After all evening chores were completed we returned to the trailhead at dark. Tyler's Tesla was gone as were the vehicles we associated with the "loop" group. Good. The Lady found that Tyler had added a note to his entry in the trailhead register.

 

"Saw 5 bucks, 4 does, 2 bambis at the SFork baker/Timber creek fork. 2 bucks bluff charged me and almost got bear sprayed. Enough yelling eventually scattered does & bucks followed."

 

 

 

 

 

Just another day in the mountains. A little more fun than usual.

 

We slept well, only waking once near midnight as a poor pilgrim drove the loops hoping for an empty campsite. Tomorrow, Wednesday, our adventure continued.

 

Our adventures in the next installment. Please click here for Part Three