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The Road to
Recovery With Old Friends
The weather
turned back to winter Friday morning. Snow levels dropped early in the day and
it snowed. The trees were soon draped in white but with the warm ground
temperature it wasn’t until afternoon that the local roads were affected and the carnage began. The
truck and camper were ready but joining in with the Friday evening travelers,
most without a clue about winter mountain driving, was unnecessary. We would
take it easy and launch in the morning.
During
dinner the snow came down harder, putting about 6 inches on the deck. The Lady
attacked it with the snow shovel and also unloaded the snow from our
retractable awning.
The house
was filled with the smell of fresh brewed coffee at 4:30 am. A check of road
conditions on the web claimed all controls were lifted. We set off. The report
lacked a bit of accuracy as Luther Pass still required chains or 4x4 with snow
tires with a speed limit of 25 mph. But, the roads were almost empty in the
early morning as dawn revealed a winter mountain wonderland with broken storm
clouds above and snow shrouded mountains and valleys below. We dropped into the
Carson Valley and the Lady started her ritual of counting roosting hawks – five
red tails and one golden eagle.
Breakfast at
Bridgeport’s Hay Street Café – yes we are creatures of habit – and we were
ready for the next stop on my road to recovery, a sure fire cure.
Travertine
Hot Springs was deserted. This late season storm had worked its magic in
thinning out weekend travelers. The skies were clearing and yes, it was
delightfully cold.
The classic
pools are marvelous with the source water flowing down narrow slots in the
mineral deposits……………………………
………………………………..and
falling into the pools below.
We partook
of the restorative hot spring waters. How could we not?
We were
curious about access into Virginia Lakes with this year’s extremely low
snowpack. It appeared that the road has been open for quite some time with only
this storm’s dump as packed snow and ice on the pavement. We easily reached the parking lot
at road’s end with between 6 and 8 inches of new snow here.
Most people
were out on the ice fishing.
I did point
out to the Lady a couple of big guys sporting Green Bay Packers jackets. It just
seemed to fit. Although the ice fishing activity was interesting, it was this
that caught our eye –
The tracks
indicated one person on wide boards setting a track up into a sheltered high
basin.
With the
passing storm front the winds had turned to out of the north. Snow plumes were sailing
off of Dunderburg Peak.
The Lady
scoured the terrain with her see mores. She worked her way up following the
narrow ski track. “There he is! I found him!” she cried. “Where?” I asked. “Oh,
I hate this,” the Lady said, “Trying to explain or point out where something
is.” “But it is a good exercise,” I said. A USFS employee stopped. “Is there a
skier up there?” he asked. We answered and he continued, “But wouldn’t it be
dangerous for avalanche?” “No,” I answered. “I’d think this would be a good
green or go day. We have about half a foot of new powder on a pretty solid
base. I think that skier is going to have a great run with rare powder
conditions on a spring day. We wish we had our skis with us, especially since
that guy is setting such a nice track we could follow. My concern for avalanche
hazard would be areas of snow deposition from these north winds up high or if we
get a rapid rise in temperature.” I left out that the skier was breaking one of
the commandants about traveling in avalanche terrain – skiing alone. If caught
in an avalanche, there was no one to rescue him.
“So where is
he?” the Forest Service guy asked.
“The bottom
edge of the high bowl has a line of trees. Below the line of trees it is open a
short distance until there is another line of trees. On the right side, between
those two lines of trees you can see a single skier working his way up.”
We headed
back out. It was single lane downhill on packed snow on gravel the first quarter mile so we made sure the way
was clear of upcoming traffic. We wandered about. Lower Lundy Lake Campground
is partially open. The Mono Basin Visitors Center is open. This was opening day
for kill season for trout. Much of California trout waters for the last couple
years are now open year round for catch and release single barbless hook
fishing. This time of the year the local east side economies are still driven
by this annual opener with sales of hardware, garden hackle, and salmon eggs.
This will continue to change as we move to healthy, sustainable wild trout
fisheries and leave the age of concrete trough raised factory fish behind.
We had asked
the Forest Service guy how far up Green Creek the road was open. He said he had
just heard you could make it to the end. As we headed back north on 395 we
turned on Green Creek Road. We figured if conditions were good and there weren’t
many opening day meat fisherman about, it just might make a dandy spot to spend
the night. We were delighted to find only a few vehicles around and only one
evident overnight camp set up. This was absolutely great! The Lady asked about
the possibility of mosquitoes, remembering early summer hordes. “Still a bit
cold, I think,” I answered. “I bet the high up here was maybe 35° today and
with this stiff downslope wind, the wind chill is probably around 0°.” “Oh,
good then, it will be great with no mosquitoes!”
The weather
forecast was for another front to pass through quickly overnight. The peaks on
the crest were already shrouded in clouds.
It was clear
off to the east with beautiful late afternoon light as we sat outside.
After dinner
we walked the length of Green Creek Road down to just above the bridge, back up
to the trailhead, and then back down to our camp at around the half way point.
It was bitter cold on our faces as we walked up into wind. Good rule, if there
is wind; end your evening hike with the wind at your back. We were delighted to
get a quick glimpse of a black crowned night heron at day’s end. We had seen
one up here one time before.
The foam
mattress pads that All Terrain Campers supplies with their campers are quite
comfortable. We have no need to replace or enhance. With our large sleeping bag
with fleece sheets that I’ve mentioned in previous stories, we look forward to
climbing up into the overhead and finishing out another wonderful day in the
outdoors.
Sleep came
easy. The sound of the wind mingled with the sound of the moving water of Green
Creek. The wind gently rocked the camper. Our solitary spot, surrounded by the grandeur
around us; we were in heaven. What a wonderful night!
Clouds were
to the east as day began.
Morning sun
hit the Sierra Crest for only a moment, sneaking under the cloud deck.
The
overnight low was around 24°. There was ice on the water.
There has
been, as I recover from surgery, two or three days where I woke up feeling remarkably
improved. This was another of those mornings. Nothing hurt. Movements, twists,
and reaches that had reminded me there was still a “hitch in my get along” were
now completely normal. I felt strong, really strong. I felt great. I told the
Lady I was declaring myself cured, recovered, healed. She looked at me with her
knowing eyes and said she was so happy I’m doing so well.
We enjoyed
coffee on a long morning walk and returned for breakfast along Green Creek. This
was glorious. Travertine Hot Springs was so close………………………………….it called to us.
We partook of the healing, restorative waters.
We wandered
up to Twin Lakes. Mono Village, at road’s end is fully up and running. There
was one large fishing camp in the Buckeye Creek area but we were surprised to
find no one at Buckeye Hot Springs, usually a busy place. The hot spring water
cascades down a dome of mineral deposits and falls into small pools on the edge
of Buckeye Creek. We had never found this empty of people.
We partook
of the restorative waters.
It was
incredible how lucky we were finding places, old friends, relatively deserted,
and ours to enjoy. It had a definite feeling that this was all meant to be.
Only one
thing remained to make this a well rounded quick trip to the east side.
Walker
Burger is a family owned old fashion road side burger joint. The owners live in
the house behind and seasonally employ many local kids. We are not fast food
people but here the meal fits. The atmosphere is nice with the well kept
grounds. There is evident care and pride of ownership.
Walker
Burger is an institution, a step back to simpler times, and a reminder of the
best of rural western communities.
I partook of
the restorative burger and fries. The Lady had a grilled chicken breast
sandwich and gobbled up most of my fries.
Quick
weekend trips should all be as wonderful as this!
