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The Lady
wanted to visit Pinnacles National Park south of Hollister, California. It
would require staying in the only campground, located on the east side.
Reservations were in place and the trip was planned for the Martin Luther King
Weekend break.
Friday
afternoon found us in uncomfortable foreign territory. Our route was down the
major traffic arteries of the great central valley. We usually don’t drive big
roads with traffic and exits that all look the same with the same corporate
franchises. How can you tell where you are? And with the current oppressive
drought the Golden State is indeed golden, a dusty dirty shade of gold. Not a
hint of green anywhere. The drought spawning high pressure ridge has also
brought stagnant, dirty air that was a near blinding glare in the afternoon
light. We were really wondering what we were getting ourselves into.
This had
been a familiar route for the Lady and me. When we first married, we had
friends who lived in Carmel that we visited often. The thirty years now passed
did not appear to have brought improvements. It looked more like the years had
taken their toll. We turned west at Santa Nella onto 152 over Pacheco Pass and
along San Luis Reservoir, its huge bathtub ring spotlighting the severe drought
conditions. Traveling on highway 25 south of Hollister we were much more at
home on the almost empty two lane road. We felt we could breathe again.
Pinnacles
had been a National Park only 7 days when we arrived. Elevated from a Monument
to a Park by the required act of Congress, the President added his signature
and made it official on January 10, 2014. We now have a treasure chest of 59
National Parks. Our spirits were rising.
This was a
busy weekend for Pinnacles. We checked in at the visitors Center to get
oriented. The entire campground was open. We were told all trailhead parking
would fill up by 10 am and they were running a free shuttle Saturday and Sunday
from the Visitor Center’s parking to the Bear Gulch trailhead.
We got
settled into our campsite. The campground was only half full Friday evening but
by looking at the reservation tags on the sites, it would be full Saturday and
Sunday nights.
Early
Saturday morning (the shuttle didn’t start until 9:30 am Saturday and a later
10:00 am on Sunday) we drove to the Bear Gulch Trailhead. It was already fairly
busy, including a few large groups. Most were heading up the Bear Gulch Trail.
We went the other way, up the Condor Gulch Trail.
The
Pinnacles are a collection of rhyolitic breccias formations, the remains of an
ancient volcanic field. A recent thrilling addition is the reintroduction of
California Condors. The population is currently 27. The spires and formations
provide refuge and nesting ledges.
We reached
the High Peaks Trail on the crest and continued our climb west. Here’s a view
looking back east.
We passed
the Tunnel Trail – access to the crest from the west entrance – and continued
among the spires.
This area
has been quite affected with the drought and is extremely dry. Campfires were
not allowed even in the metal rings at campsites.
Along the
crest, the High Peaks Trail’s construction was spectacular, being blasted and
cut out of the rock. Old pipe handrails were along the near vertical sections.
The Lady was
an energetic kid on a jungle gym in wonderful terrain.
It was busy,
people and voices were most everywhere. We found an out of the way highpoint
for a long break. The daytime high was approaching 80°. The Lady was sporting
her new favorite hat.
The vegetation
is predominately chaparral, manzanita, and oaks. Towering above is an occasional
Gray Pine.
As we
descended The Bear Gulch Trail, we saw our first Condor, soaring high above.
We took the
Rim Trail over to Bear Gulch Reservoir. Closer to the trailhead, this
area was quite busy. We dropped down into the Bear Gulch Cave.
The caves at
Pinnacles are called talus caves, formed where steep gullies or gulches are
covered over with large boulders and rocks creating tight passageways and obstacles.
Bear Gulch Cave was cold, dark, and interesting. We exited out the bottom and
completed our loop hike back to the truck.
Mid afternoon
found us back relaxing at camp. After waking to 24°, we enjoyed sitting in
sandals, shorts, and light shirts. The Chalone Creek Canyon is an incredible
cold sink after the sun is behind the ridge.
Most of our
camping is in remote dispersed areas, away from crowds. Campground living is a
necessary annoyance when visiting more populous attractions. We had an incident
Saturday night.
We turned in
early. The campground was full, but
quiet. We both dropped into deep sleep.
“Who is
making all that noise?” the Lady asked. She was tight against my back, her
voice in my ear. As I woke up I tried to focus. Someone was indeed loudly
talking and close by.
“Where are
they?” the Lady asked. “They sound so close and loud.”
As I rose up
on my elbows I asked, “What time is it?”
The Lady
checked the clock. “It’s after ten.”
I looked out
the window into the night. Directly below me, our campsite’s table was covered
with gear. We had left it clean and empty. An adult male with a headlamp was
standing at one end over a stove and a boiling pot. A car was driven up and
parked at the table. I saw a tent erected in the background. There was at least
one other person. The man at the stove was carrying on a loud conversation with
whoever else was there. The scene took a short while to register. It just did
not make sense. This was our campsite, reserved, bought and paid for.
I quickly ripped
the Velcro open for the clear vinyl window. I did not yell but forcefully
asked, “What are you doing in our campsite?”
Excuses,
explanations came in a hurry. “We didn’t have reservations. There was no place
to camp. We didn’t know this was your campsite.”
I stopped
him. “You woke us up with your noise and talk. You are in our campsite. You are
leaving now.”
“Leave! You
want us to leave?”
He seemed shocked that I would tell him to
leave.
“That’s our
car. That’s our tent all set up. Can’t we leave in the morning?”
I turned to
the Lady and I do not know how much of this he heard, “What do you think about
that?”
The Lady
said, “Right now I want them to shut up.”
I was back
at the window, “Not one more word!” I closed the window and laid back.
We did not
hear another word. I had gotten their attention. There was very quiet movement
outside. The doors of the vehicle were opened and closed a few times. I
expected they would leave. They had never seen me, only heard my voice. I had
not given a clear indication they could stay. They were completely quiet – at
least as far as I knew, because we both fell back into a sound sleep. I knew
what would happen in the morning if they were still there. They did not.
I do not
like confrontations. Who in their right mind does? But I have been around
awhile and had my share. Here’s what I believe I’ve learned thus far.
First I look
at the big picture. A friend taught me to always ask the question “Is this hill
worth dying over?” In this case, absolutely not. This incident is a tiny tiny
blimp in the big scheme.
I also know
it is not my job to teach people lessons. Revenge or getting even is childish
and beneath us.
Rules of
Engagement –
Take a deep
breath. Always be civil, respectful, and do not use profanity. Show no emotion.
Be quietly firm. Keep to the issue. Never threaten and never disclose your game
plan, always leave them guessing what you may do or are capable of doing.
Remember the flight or fight response. Always give somebody a way out. Do not
back anybody or anything into a corner. Do not get backed into a corner
yourself.
The next
morning –
After
daytime highs in the eighties, it was quite a difference to have the lows
around 24° so we actually slept in a bit. The Lady reached down around 5:30 and
clicked the thermostat into action, the furnace came to life and soon the
camper was warm and we were stretching and wiggling up in our berth. I checked
outside. They were still there.
I doubt
anybody reading this, if you were the invaders, had honestly made a mistake
(very doubtful in this case), took over someone’s campsite, had a confrontation
where you likely angered someone you know nothing about, had not even seen - would
you have hung around to see what would happen in the morning? My education is
continuing. There apparently are people that utterly clueless.
It was a
cold, still, quiet morning when I exited the camper around 6:15. Yes, we slept
in but sun does not hit the campground until 8:30. I walked directly to the
tent, grabbed the top and shook it until noises came from inside. I said, “Good
morning. It is time to leave.” I made a trip to the outhouse. I returned. There
was no movement or sound from the tent. I opened the truck and got our chairs.
I set them up right next to the tent. I walked over to the camper and checked
on the Lady, busy with her morning rituals. I walked around their vehicle and
made note of its make and license number. I walked back to the tent. I shook it
again until there were voices. I said, “Again, it is morning. It is time to
leave.”
A woman was
the first to exit. Bedding, equipment, etc. was thrown out the tent. She made a
lot of muttered talk but nothing directly at me. I calmly stood and watched.
Items were shuttled to the car. The Lady exited the camper with our morning
coffee and surveyed the scene. She calmly asked me, “Are you going over to get
the host?”
“No,” I
replied. “There is a better way.”
Their pace
quickened dramatically. In no longer than five minutes they and all their gear was
in the car. The Lady and I stood on the pavement as they backed out. I expected
them to back right up against us and then roar away in a sign of defiance. They
did not. The woman did say a few words that did not need translation.
I honestly
believe this was the first time these people had ever not gotten their way. I
am still quite puzzled by the incident. It was so outside what I would consider
acceptable behavior.
A friend has
compared this to a busy city setting where people blatantly enter your hotel
room and take over that extra bed you are not using. Bottom line - however we
can safely do it, we cannot reward bad behavior. If they had gotten away with it
without some consequence - and I think getting their butts up and out of there
before sunrise was a good consequence - they would only do this again.
We did our
morning walk with our hot Peets coffee, enjoyed the quiet campground morning,
and got ready for the day’s adventure.
Sunday we
were up for a longer loop up over the top. The Old Pinnacles Trailhead only
holds a few vehicles and the shuttle does not go there. We were hoping for a
bit more solitude. We hiked the Balconies Trail, an easy walk up Chalone
Creek. I was surprised there was at least one remnant small pool.
The
Balconies came into sight, a series of high terraces above vertical cliffs.
We took the
Balconies Cliff Trail up to the base of the cliffs. Two Condors sat atop the
highest points and took flight slowly circling the formation, then returning to
their outcroppings. Easily seen with the
Lady’s “see mores”, they were too distant for a worthwhile photo.
This is a
great trail for the views.
We watched
climbers working a route.
The Balconies
Cliff Trail intersected back with the main Balconies Trail. We had bypassed the
Balconies Caves so we dropped back down to see them.
The caves
are close to the west side entrance and parking. It appeared
that this is a popular walk from the west side.
We hiked
down to the west side parking. It was packed. We headed back up to the crest
via the Juniper Canyon Trail and then the Tunnel Trail.
We found
another private high point after getting back onto the High Peaks Trail where we
enjoyed snacks and water. We dropped back down to the east passing the
intersection with the Condor Gulch Trail, our route up the previous day. The High
Peaks Trail descends a long ridge on its way down to Chalone Creek. We watched
two Condors high above.
This was a
quiet trail to hike and we enjoyed the shade. Mid afternoon we were back at
camp. Several people had questions about and interest in our camper. We handed
out the last of our business cards for All Terrain Campers. It was an
uneventful and peaceful night.
Pinnacles
was an enjoyable visit. It would be nice to see it again in non drought
conditions. It would be easy to imagine green grass and wildflower displays of
spring.
