please remember you can click on a photo to see a larger version & highlighted text are links to additional information
Please click here for Part Three
Before They Are Gone
In reading Margaret Fuller’s Guidebook, the Lady suggested exploring the Atlanta area on the Middle Fork of the Boise River and the access there into the Sawtooth Wilderness. The first night enroute we stayed north of McCall as we wanted to stop in at Drift West to replenish fly fishing supplies and to talk about emergers. Upper Payette Lake is a little out of town but is away from the touristy Tahoe like feel of McCall.
The fly shop was quiet and the shop owner helpful and we spent more time there than expected. Headed south on highway 55 we watched the outside temperature display with trepidation – 95°, 98°, 101°. We thought the turn east and up the South Fork of the Payette would help. 102°, 103°, 104°; no way would we continue south. As soon as we found an opportunity, we drove to higher elevation and found a secluded, remote dispersed campsite along a cold creek.
We came up with a change of plans that turned into a highlight of this already pretty incredible fly fishing adventure. First stop was to spend more money. Days fishing the big rivers, making quick casts when the Lady pointed out the target, pulling out line for these quick longer casts, and bringing in line quickly with a feisty trout turning after a run, convinced me all this talk about large arbor fly reels perhaps had merit. Yup, I moved up the modern Ross Reel food chain. The 4/5 Animas makes a nice addition to the new Winston.
Last year we made a pass through the Copper Basin and found it horribly overrun. It kept us from revisiting a high basin in the Pioneer Mountains we love. Perhaps, with this being later in the season and after school starts, and midweek, it would be quiet enough for us to stay. The primitive, small Broad Canyon Campground was empty. It could not get any better than this. How could we be so lucky?
Our evening walks out into the sage makes this place very special to us.
We started up the Broad Canyon trail the next morning.
Along the trail we were surprised to find this sign. It’s a bit hidden and back on a spur.
Why we were surprised? Because the sign at the trailhead and others at intersections look like this.
There’s a hard feeling the mileage on these signs are way off and the miles should be higher.
We continued up this familiar trail. In places it is very steep, rocky, rough, and with a good amount of elevation gain.
We arrived at Baptie Lake.
Baptie Lake is a golden trout fishery. We’ve fly fished here before and getting these persnickety, finicky goldens to take a fly is a challenge. We like challenges. Having the place all to ourselves, we first scouted the entire lake, spotting and watching the trout. The wind had concentrated windblown terrestrials against the west shore. But the wind was light, the water calm, at times like glass, and these beautiful trout are cautious.
We ended this delightful day with 6 goldens – 12 to 13 inches – brought to the net and released. We called it a very successful day.
But the real delight was the opportunity to visit here, hike the trails, take in the striking beauty, and allow the place to soak into our being.
Was the thirteen mile round trip hike and climb up here worth it to fly fish for a few hours? Absolutely. We’d do the same thing the next day up to another lake.
The following morning we hiked up the trail on the north side of Broad Canyon. Compared to our previous visits here, Idaho is very dry.
The upper reach of this trail is in spectacular terrain.
This trail is also very steep, rocky, rough, and with even more elevation gain.
We arrived at our destination.
We’d not fished Betty Lake before so we were looking forward to discovering what, if anything, lived in these waters. The hunt was on. We started to spot trout. We watched their cruising patterns. The Lady, right at home, stayed high with a better view. Right away we figured they were cutthroat as large fish cruised right along the edge of the lake. The Lady directed me to the fish. In the clear water my casts and presentations must not spook them. I’d stay low and keep my rod movements to a minimum. I had a long 6x mirage tippet tied to the leader. We stopped at 20 nice hefty cutts brought to the net and released. It was an excellent day.
And then there was the Kahuna. This dark shape of a, perhaps, 18 inch cutthroat, a big fish, haunted us. It appeared twice cruising the edge of the lake. I stayed behind it walking fast along the shore, looking for an opportunity, with a gentle long cast, to place a fly 20 feet ahead of it. Twice, I managed just that. I then stopped. The Lady from her high perch narrated the events. “He’s coming, coming. He sees the fly. He's rising to take it!” Both opportunities were shattered when another trout suddenly raced in and beat the Kahuna to the fly.
We packed up our gear. A rock along the shore above deep water called. We both dove in and finished off the day with a skinny dip swim in cold mountain waters.
And the Kahuna escorted us as we walked along the shore on our way out.
The hike out, again, was something to be savored and enjoyed to its fullest measure.
And, of course, the Lady scanned with her see mores. She wanted to see big critters. Two bull moose - swamp donkeys - in the bottom lands did nicely.
It was a Friday afternoon when we returned to the campground and it was filling up. We were glad we were leaving in the morning.
I’ve included details about these lakes because they are under attack. If you want to visit and take in these special places, do it now before they are gone. These mountains and lakes are not protected with Wilderness designation. This is a large roadless area that has been protected for close to 25 years by the 2001 Roadless Area Conservation Rule. This rule is now being rescinded by the current administration. These irreplaceable treasures will be gone. Read more from Trout Unlimited – Roadless is more.
I’m a realist. My hope is gone. Wilderness areas will be next.
Our adventure continues in the upcoming Part Five.
No comments:
Post a Comment