Wandering in Oregon – May 2024 – Part Four

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Please click here for – Part Three

 

The Oregon Outback

 

It is, of course, never too early in the day to have a milkshake at Fields Station. The Lady ordered her favorite flavor (3 C’s) and we happily shared the milkshake. No way can either of us finish off one on our own. The place was quiet on this Sunday morning. Two birders from Page Springs had arrived before us. They came for breakfast. One young couple was having milkshakes and a local, a pilot, was sitting outside looking for someone to talk with. We took the bait.

 

With full bellies and smiles we continued south to Denio Junction in Nevada, turned east on highway 140, and made a stop near Baltazor Hot Springs.The water is extremely hot and it is on private property. It sits in a gorgeous valley with ruins at the springs. We, again respected private property.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our objective for this day was Guano Valley north of highway 140 back in Oregon. We’ve made 4 trips into this vast outback. This trip we wanted to make a stop at The Shirk Ranch.

 

 

 

 

 

David L. Shirk was one of the original cattlemen in Oregon. He amassed vast holdings. He purchased this property in 1883 for development into a horse ranch. Most of the remaining structures are from Shirk’s time here. Shirk owned another ranch in Catlow Valley near Frenchglen, home of the massive French-Glen Cattle Company. Its headquarters was the P-Ranch we’d visited this morning. Peter French and David Shirk were rivals and French wanted to move Shirk out of the area. During one skirmish in 1889 Shirk killed one of French’s employees – a man who once worked for Shirk. Charged with murder, Shirk was found not guilty at the ensuing trial. Shirk sold his holdings in 1914 and settled into a different life in Berkeley, California.

 

This high desert landscape – 5000 feet and above – is well watered.

 

 

 

 

 

Here’s an excellent narrated video on the historic ranch – Shirk Ranch. 

 

The day was cool and a strong wind made it colder. We were alone out here; in fact, we did not meet any other vehicles on the drive in. We saw many speed goats (pronghorn) and the broad valley has grazing cattle in abundance. The buildings are open and used as nesting places for swallows. The floors are deteriorating, the stairway moves. Watch where you step and what you touch. Overall, the place is fascinating and a step back in time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

During this visit we were unaware of the grave site on the knoll to the west mentioned in the video. We’ll need to return.

 

It was time to search out a place to spend the night. Although there was a stiff wind, we decided we’d drive up to the top of the rim. The possible vast vistas would be well worth putting up with wind. It was a steep 4x4 low drive up the primitive road. We crossed several bands of basalt. There was one gate to open and close. Three and a half slow miles later we found an open wide spot.

 

 

 

 

 

The Lady delighted in spotting speed goats with her see mores. You should notice her gloves and fleece hat pulled down tight. The wind bit.

 

But what a marvelous place!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We walked several miles and explored ‘til well after sunset.

 

 

 

 

 

You guessed it, it dropped to 32° overnight. We closed the windows and started the furnace. Soon coffee mugs were ready for our morning wanderings.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We started toward home. On the steep descent in 4 low we banged into one rock that we both were surprised by. We were sure we’d clear it.

 

South of Alturas there was one place that’s been on our list for years we wanted to finally visit, West Valley Hot Springs. This is a story of a road that starts out in good shape and then gets worse with every mile. But you keep going, drive slow and carefully, and think it can’t possibly get any worse. But it does. There was one spot we got out and scouted. We figured out a line and getting through was uneventful. We found the hot spring with its small building over a small concrete soaking pool.

 

 

 

 

 

The signs are new. The barbed wire is stretched tight. We respect posted land and private property.

 

 

 

 

We had a good laugh and then retraced our path and returned to pavement. Outside of the well named small settlement of Likely, we were stopped by a cattle drive – a real one, no ATV’s. One of the wranglers on horseback, a woman, stayed behind and asked about our personalized license plates. After a friendly chat we all agreed that there is one thing this world needs, more banjo pickers.

 

We decided we would spend one more night out before returning home. A long dirt road goes east from Ravendale to Nevada. Just before the state line we found a dispersed campsite on a pleasant highpoint.

 

 

 

 

 

Juniper, sage, and Hooker’s Balsamroot (Balsamorhiza hookeri), a great combination.

 

 

 

 

 

We slept well, as always, and woke to…………. Take a guess. I’m making a bit of fun about the continuing cold overnights because, in looking at weather forecasts during trip planning, the forecasts were for much warmer, more springlike temperatures.

 

One push for taking off on this trip was getting out before the Memorial Day weekend. Away from  the crowds, not traveling, we’ve found a good use for the holiday weekend. Memorial Day weekend is used for annual truck and camper chores. The camper comes off and both the truck and camper are thoroughly washed, detailed and waxed. Also, the truck gets its annual lube job - u-joints, ball joints, tie rod ends, etc.

 

As I pulled the truck into the garage for detailing after washing, Julie noticed that the truck was tilting - lower on the passenger side. This is what we found –

 

 

 

 

That split is not normal on the lower control arm (how's that for an understatement?). We both recalled that rock we bumped while crawling down that steep two track in southeastern Oregon, near the end of this trip. Was that the culprit? If so, that probably cracked the lower control arm but I do not believe the crack opened up – as shown in the photo – until after we returned home.

 

What to do about it? Fix it, of course.