Death Valley – January 2024 – Part Two

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Please click here for – Part One

 

And More Stories

 

The predawn light the next morning was glorious as it slowly painted this vast landscape.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Lady and I explored the area around Willow Spring

 

 

 

 

 

Digonnet mentions in his Hiking Death Valley that the mining activity at Willow Spring was from a 1920’s placer mining claim that was worked. We found ruins of a mill site foundation, a concrete pad, an old truck frame, and a cistern.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We lowered the pop tops on our campers with plans to move closer to the head of Redlands Canyon and take a hike following in history’s footsteps. I started our old Ranger pickup and rolled off of the leveling blocks. That’s when the Lady heard a call from the rubberlegs duo that their battery was dead and their truck would not start. We both had jumper cables but I mentioned I had something that would be a lot easier, an antigravity XP-1 jump starter.

“I’ve had it for a few years,” I stated. “I check that it’s fully charged every spring. I’ve never used it. Let’s see how it works.”

It worked like a charm. It can be recharged after use. It can also charge phones and other devices. No need for another vehicle and long jumper cables. We all were impressed.

 

We drove over to the head of Redlands and started down the rough road that drops a short way into the canyon. We were soon stopped by another washout, a reoccurring theme from the historic rains.

 

It took a bit to get the vehicles turned around and into safe parking spots off the road. After the usual fussing getting boots on and packs ready, we started down Redlands Canyon.

 

 

 

 

 

William Lewis Manly and his partner John Rogers left two families behind in Death Valley in December 1849 promising to return with supplies and then help them get to settlements near Los Angeles. They were on foot. It was a 250 miles trek across the desert. They had to find a route. They were not related to the families. Their tale is one of the noblest acts of heroism in the history of the West. We were walking in their footsteps.

 

On their return to Death Valley with two horses, a one-eyed mule, and all the supplies they could carry, the two men ascended Redlands Canyon as the pass at its head was much lower than the route they used to get to help. They soon encountered a dry fall. There was no way to get the horses over, but by some miracle they were able to push, pull, and coerce the one-eyed mule up and over the dry fall.  

 

On the return trip down canyon with the rescued families this dry fall was a major obstacle. The families had one remaining ox, Old Crump. Old Crump carried the small children and was essential to getting them to safety. You have to read the book on how they managed the task. The dry fall is now known as Ox Jump Falls.

 

The Canyon grew steeper and steeper as we descended. The Lady, as ever, the bundle of energy she is, led the way.

 

 

 

 

 

Unfortunately, Deb had a blister issue. After a little field doctoring, she made the wise decision to stop and then carefully move back up to the trucks. The three of us continued down but we really missed Deb’s marvelous running dialogue on the history of the rescue.

 

This is not an easy canyon to descend.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had the long maze of Redlands Spring to work our way around and through.

 

 

 

 

 

Further down, we arrived at the top of Ox Jump Falls.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Note – the pipes are associated with bringing water from Redlands Spring to mining prospects below the falls.

 

How in the hell did Manly and Rogers get a mule up this dry fall?

 

 

 

 

 

The story is that the group piled brush at the bottom to soften the animal’s drop on the way down. Because of our turn around time, this was as far as we went. It would be fun to return, down climb, and study Ox Jump Falls from the bottom. We wanted to make it back to the trucks before dark and be sure that Deb had safely made it back also.

 

This had been a wonderful day walking in the footsteps of history. We headed back up canyon as the shadows lengthened.

 

 

 

 

 

Back at the trucks, we again used the jump start to get the Tacoma moving. We raced daylight as we drove out and searched for a campsite near Striped Butte. Set up, clean up, dinner, and chores were completed in the dark. The braying of asses serenaded us most the night.

 

It was fun to see our surroundings as light came the next morning.

 

 

 

 

 

You have, most likely, figured out what Deb & Steve would spend the day doing. Taking our jump start along, they left early to drive into Pahrump and get a new battery.

 

 

 

 

 

We took in the marvelous vistas as we ate breakfast.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We said a last good bye to Striped Butte as we drove out of Butte Valley.

 

 

 

 

 

We all would rendezvous at Mesquite Spring Campground in upper Death Valley. We would arrive first and secure a couple of campsites.

 

The highlight of the drive was seeing the rare return of Lake Manly, water from the historic rain events has partially filled the Badwater Basin of Death Valley.

 

 

 

 

 

Mesquite Campground was quiet and almost empty. I believe this was the afternoon we ate the guacamole with the prickly pear salsa, and this is difficult to write without craving more right now.

 

Deb needed a couple of days off to let her feet heal. Mesquite Campground made a nice spot to spend a few nights. We had two places, that involved driving, we could take Steve to.

 

Both days were cross country adventures. Here’s our first day.

 

 

 

 

 

Although the bajada looks flat, it is far from it, bisected repeatedly by deep washes.

 

 

 

 

 

Getting into steeper terrain, someone suggested to Julie that she climb and walk a ridge line to look for ancient hunting blinds. Yes, we were on the hunt for archeology sites.

 

 

 

 

 

There is something deeply satisfying about wandering and exploring rough terrain just to see what you might find.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After returning to camp, the Lady and I wandered down Death Valley Wash in the late afternoon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The weather was changing. We had watched mares’ tails move across the sky as we hiked. Clouds built in the evening. Before dawn the next morning we were under a low cloud deck. I was up early to see if color would develop.

 

 

 

 

 

It was a marvelous light show.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve, again, accompanied us on an adventure. We missed Deb, but healing was the priority.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The places we visited were pretty incredible and well worth a day’s hike.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We explored up a colorful canyon with a delightful dry fall to climb.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We moved up the ridge and descended a different canyon.

 

 

 

 

 

Fossil water ripples continue to excite me. I can’t help it.

 

 

 

 

 

I one point we climbed high to get a view. Later, the Lady went ahead and pointed out how we could return to the canyon bottom.

 

 

 

 

 

Wildflowers were sparse but we did come upon phacelia, desert gold, and yellow cups.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We encountered an untouched ancient habitation site. We treated it with the utmost respect and touched nothing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And, in an absolutely unexpected place we found a field of boulders with petroglyphs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The building clouds made for dreary skies. The wind was growing in intensity. The temperature was dropping as we returned to the campground. The rain started around midnight. We packed up in the rain the next morning. We needed to head home. Deb & Steve had plans to stay several more days in Death Valley but would sit out the rain at Mesquite until the weather improved.

 

We’ve never encountered such steady rain in the Park as we drove out of Death Valley. Snow level was 5000 feet and we encountered snow at Towne Pass. The rain lessened across Panamint Valley and Father Crowley Grade on 190 was shrouded in thick fog, making for a very interesting drive. Owens Valley, driving north on highway 395, alternated between rain squalls and breaking clouds. The sky and light were dramatic on the northeast side of Bishop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We arrived home safe and sound after crossing the summit with blowing snow and chain controls. And then the big storm hit. Southern California was hit harder than the north. The rubberlegs, Deb & Steve, escaped from Death Valley early and decided to head home and call it a trip.

 

But they will be back. Remember Deb is giving those talks at the Furnace Creek Visitors Center the end of March.

 

We love stories.