Tuesday, September 17, 2019

Colorado - August 2019


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Part Four of Our Big Summer Adventure



A Hop, Skip, and A Jump



The Lady was driving south on Wyoming 789 as we approached the border with Colorado. I was handling navigation and plans. We had been out for several days and the Lady wanted to do laundry so my job was to find an overnight spot with laundry. I also had to do driving time calculations. I saw there was a KOA in Steamboat Springs along the Yampa River.



The Lady made a call as we gassed up in Craig and asked about space availability, laundry, showers, and filling our propane tank. Everything checked out, a site reserved, and we'd arrive mid afternoon.



The campsites were close to one another, pretty common at these places. Our fears about this vanished when our neighbors immediately walked over and introduced themselves and their dog, Kona. What an impressive and classy thing to do! The young athletic couple were from Vancouver Island in British Columbia. We are now convinced people from B.C. rank as the friendliest and nicest around.



Mike was competing in a bike race the coming weekend, the SBT GRVL. He and Marika had arrived early to provide time for practice rides at elevation to acclimate, since they live at sea level in B.C.



I have to say, just flat out that we fell in love with Steamboat Springs, CO. The KOA was five miles out of town but Steamboat Springs provides free bus service. There's a bus stop right in the KOA campground. After our laundry was done, the propane tank filled, and hot showers - minor disappointment was the showers are inside the respective genders restrooms so couples can't save water by showering together, Mike and Marika agreed - the Lady and I went on a dinner date to the big city with a free bus ride. Yes, Steamboat Springs is a touristy ski town, but it has charm and friendly people. We felt comfortable and at home. Few towns do this for us.



We arrived back at the campground after dark. I was greeted by our neighbors taking Kona for a walk.

"Where did you go?" Mike asked.

"Went to town on a dinner date." I answered.

"Did you tell Julie?" Mike asked with a smile.

I got the quick joke and said, "Yes, I did. Julie is the only one I go out on a date with."

"Did you go to a hot spring?" Marika asked and continued, "I heard Strawberry Springs is clothing optional at night. I'd like to go there."

I looked over at Mike. "Mike, it looks like you are missing your date night."



We left early in the morning and stopped in Steamboat for a long morning walk. We picked up one of Winona's Restaurant & Bakery's famous cinnamon rolls to eat on the drive south to my brother, Fastshot's home in Colorado Springs. We were visiting to celebrate he and his wife's 55th wedding anniversary on August 15th.



Fastshot and The Dancer have lived in Colorado Springs for over 40 years and resettled here after Fastshot retired from the Army after a long career in aviation and air traffic control.



Fastshot's bride is into everything dance and helps with movement therapy in nursing facilities. And, she is currently in a singing group. Fastshot's passion is brew pubs and Cowboy Shoots.  His cowboy handle is "Tombstone" and their new home is a shrine to everything cowboy. They have a wonderful group of friends and family to keep them happily occupied.



And what did they want to do to celebrate 55 years of marriage? Throw a party for friends and family. They are friends with the owners of the Airplane Restaurant, a nice place for the gathering. A complete KC-97 refueling tanker is incorporated into the building and the place is everything aviation. Kids are welcome to sit at the controls in the cockpit. We did. Of special interest is that early in Fastshot's career he was sent to Texas to train with the National Guard and learn how to operate the refueling boom in the tail of a tanker. The Airplane Restaurant has a manikin dressed in a flight suit in the tail of the plane to demonstrate the job.

"See that dummy laying there?" Fastshot pointed. "That was me in this very aircraft. I couldn't believe when I saw the tail number."



The celebratory get together was grand and it was great to meet so many neat people. The next morning their daughter and husband - our niece and nephew - joined us on a walk in Red Rock Canyon Park.





















A sandstone quarry once operated in the canyon.












Our niece brought along their dog, Bella, fresh from the groomer, complete with manicured pink toenails up front. It made me think that back in the old days Mom was the only one that got her nails done. Our happy group posted for family photos.












We had a great time with family. Thanks so much for your hospitality!



We headed out for more adventure on Saturday morning. Yes, it was a weekend and we wondered how that would impact where we ended up. First off we wanted to get off the main roads so we headed up and over Weston Pass - known as "The Road to Riches" - on our way to Leadville.




It was a typical Rocky Mountain thunderstorms kind of day. The high alpine scenery never gets old.




















What were we up to? The day after summiting Mount Elbert - Colorado's highest peak in 2010, we attempted Mount Massive - Colorado's second highest (18 feet lower than Elbert) - but turned around because of weather. The Lady does not forget these things.



We decided we'd let conditions dictate whether we'd make another attempt. In this instance "conditions" meant could we find any kind of open campsite near the trailhead on a weekend? Colorado 14ers are a huge tourist industry and we would also be right at the base of Mount Elbert, the tallest. Were we dumb to even try?



First we needed to stock up on groceries so we pulled into Leadville's Safeway market and encountered the rudest people. It was unbelievable. We drove up the dirt Halfmoon Creek Road to the trailheads. Again, it was unbelievable how rude all the drivers were. Fast, and right down the middle of the road trailing a huge cloud of dust. It was a game of chicken forcing other vehicles off the road. And the road was busy. We were on the brink of dropping the whole idea and just get out of Colorado. It was that bad. The road up is lined with hammered dispersed camp sites, ugly patches denuded of any vegetation, and everything covered in road dust. They were all packed with campers.




We pulled into the Elbert Creek Campground to turn around and leave. Surprised that several of the sites were empty, we decided to look around. The finest campsite, alone at the upper end perched above Halfmoon Creek, was ours for the taking. It was a miracle.












Although a tremendous thunderstorm beat down on the area when we were in Safeway, a check of the weather forecasted clear weather for Sunday. Another miracle.




From our campsite, it was a little over 8 miles to the summit of Mount Massive and a bit over 4500 feet of up. 14ers require an early start so we were on the trail in the dark at 5:30. We had a waning full moon so no headlamps.




Bright morning sunlight bathed the east slopes as we reached tree line.












It was hard not to stop for all the flowers that lined our route.












The trail traverses to the north before turning west for the long climb to the saddle in the summit ridge.




















The moon set as we made the turn.




















A mountain chicken watched us pass as she made sure her brood of almost grown chicks were behind her.












A whistle pig also stopped to watch.












The climb up with the clear blue skies was incredible.












I do a bit better at elevation than the Lady. Feeling winded and out of breath is rarely a problem for either of us. A nice slow steady pace gets the job done, never move faster than you can breathe. The Lady, with her active digestive system, can have bloating and gut issues above 13,000 feet, probably due to the lower atmospheric pressure. This day she did great until 14,000 feet. We stopped at the saddle to let her tummy settle.












We had passed a line of hikers - they would move fast and then stop with hands on hips and try to breathe - on the long pull up to the saddle. They slowly caught up with us.




The wind was roaring through the saddle and we sat below a rock for shelter. I managed one panorama shot.












The Lady recovered nicely and we started up the ridge and passed the others.












The vistas were outstanding.












This was so much fun. We were having a wonderful time!




As were neared the top of the southern end of the long summit ridge, four mountains goats moved above us. One struck a pose for the camera.




















The ridge was the most delightful part of the hike.












At the next saddle we shared the space with a goat who looked as if she had just left the groomers.




















These are such strong animals and it is awe inspiring to watch them move.




























The goat had incredible views from her spot on the ridge.












The next section of the route was a long series of very fun easy steps and ledges. We also met the first person coming down.












The majestic views continued.












After several ups and downs, the summit came into view.












As we say, "With a hop, skip, and a jump," we were on the top of Mount Massive at 14,421 feet. It was 9:30 am.




























We snacked as the Lady oriented us to our surroundings with her topo map.












We shared the summit with six or seven when we arrived, Many more were close to summiting. It was so nice to see so many strong young women. One man started in on talk soaked with the bravado of youth - past exploits, what he was up to next, and all in a voice loud enough he knew all others could hear. It got old as soon as he opened his mouth. How about soaking in the incredible awe of this place in respectful silence?



The Lady leaned close and whispered, "I think we have a minimum of three decades on anyone else up here today. Let's start down and get away from everybody and enjoy the descent."












We came upon a pika as we dropped off the summit ridge.












The view opened up with Leadville and the Arkansas River Valley below.












The king whistle pig surveyed his domain.












We took a nice break lower down the mountain out of the wind.












We had to stop for the columbine.











Back in the trees and back on the Colorado Trail, we filtered water and took a hour or so break along Willow Creek. We arrived back at camp at 2:30 in the afternoon and relaxed the remainder of the day away along Halfmoon Creek.



Early the next morning we were on top of Independence Pass and the Continental Divide on highway 82.





We love this place, especially in the early morning.




























We had a few things to attend to before leaving Colorado. We stopped in Palisade for peaches. And, we stopped at the REI in Grand Junction as we needed to replace a few items we had worn out. I needed new socks for my hiking boots. I couldn't put up with all the holes any longer. The Lady finally ripped out the seat of her long nylon hiking pants, she got a new pair. And her Lowa boots were completely shot. We replaced them with a new pair of Solomon boots.












We arrived in Green River, Utah late afternoon and spent the night in the park like setting of Green River State Park. All the sites have electric hook up so we were blissfully free from the sickening noise of generators. If you just need an overnight spot, this one works well.




We woke refreshed the next morning and made our way to our next destination - Nevada!

The next chapter can be found here -

Great Basin National Park - August 2019

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