Explorations with the Ski3pins: Wandering the Mono Basin - October 2017

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A Birthday Present & Paths Through History

When the last shop light went up on the ceiling of the new garage and the project passed final inspection by the county inspector, we knew we were free to travel. Finally!

I asked the Lady what she wanted for her birthday. Her answer, as always, was simple and direct, "I want to be away from home projects and I want a long hike." I could make this birthday present for her happen. We headed out Friday just before noon.

Stories and music are loves of my life. History is entwined in there also, especially when it tells a good tale. I'm always curious. I can't help it. When I pass through landscapes that I've grown to love, I wonder what went on before; what stories are hidden under the surface, waiting to be remembered? This enriches our travels.

How many times in our chronicles on this blog have we started out an adventure by heading south on the Eastern Sierra Nevada's Highway 395? Oh, so many. It never gets old. This mountain road always satisfies, whether with the change of seasons, or challenging weather, or the excited anticipation of where our travels are taking us. And, of course, there are all the stories hidden along its route.

European settlers first came to the Mono Basin in search of gold, streaming over Mono Pass from the west expanding out from the famous Mother Lode area, still fired up with the lust for riches. They spread into Bridgeport Valley and some put down roots with ranches and businesses. Cattle were successful up here. Two pioneering cattleman joined forces and formed the Rickey - Kirman Cattle Company. As they expanded, they moved their headquarters to the Antelope Valley along the West Fork of the Walker River, north of Bridgeport. Cowhands flocked to the little berg of Topaz, California, looking for good employment with the Rickey - Kirman, including two young men now revered in the ranks of legendary buckaroos - Will James and Curley Fletcher.

One morning at the ranch, more than a hundred years ago now, Curley watched his buddy Will take on a horse to break and the rest became cowboy history when Curly Fletcher told the story with his famous song, "Strawberry Roan." Next time you're traveling down the line of old cottonwoods along 395 through Topaz and Coleville, remember Curley and Will and listen for this song in the breeze.

Note: the source for the information connecting Antelope Valley with the famous cowboy song was - Mono County Historical Society 2017 Newsletter

We continued south with the clearing storm. The cold north wind shook the leaves on the old cottonwoods. A storm had moved through overnight and dropped snow in the high country. High passes such as Tioga had closed and a high wind warning was still in effect on 395. Winter is coming.

We ventured through Bridgeport, over Conway Summit, and into the Mono Lake Basin. The cold, clearing, north wind was abating. We decided to try a new dispersed campsite we had scoped out in previous years but never stayed at. High and exposed at 9000 feet, we needed the winds down enough to allow us an overnight stay. It was mid afternoon and 32°, with enough of a wind to make us move to the lee side of the truck, but we could manage. The vistas were outstanding.

Banks of clouds still rolled across the sky.

We were on the edge of a aspen thicket, denuded of leaves and now ghosts of fall colors.

To orient ourselves, we walked up to the top of Sagehen Peak, a mile or so away. The view east dropped into Adobe Valley and also Glass Mountain with the distant White Mountains.

We returned to camp. Our outside showers in the wind at 30° invigorated. Dinner was simple, a hot bowl of soup. We wanted to be ready for the show.

Clouds still lingered in the valleys and along the Sierra crest playing with Banner and Ritter, two iconic peaks.

Evening color arrived. Its magic surrounded us.

We watched in awe and silence as the sunset moved to its red finish.

The temperature plummeted. The chill bit into us as we walked, making us feel more alive on this unforgettable evening.

After dropping into the teens overnight, dawn came as the temperature warned into the low twenties. It was a morning to get outside as soon as possible.

Our early morning walk with coffee mugs took us back to the top of Sagehen Peak.

Mountain mahogany, aspens, jeffery pines, stretched out to the southwest around the summit of Crooked Peak in the foreground. The Sierra crest dominated the distance.

It was time for breakfast and to get on our way.

We had some chores to do that took us into Bishop. We returned to the highway 120 area to explore. We stopped for lunch along the way, climbing up and into a favorite pile of granite.

We explored the informal trailhead for the summit of Glass Mountain. Would this satisfy as a "long hike" birthday present for the Lady? Maybe but nearby dispersed campsites were in the trees. This would not do in this landscape of limitless vistas and expansive skies now cleared of summer haze by the gifts of fall weather.

We moved down slope in search of a proper campsite. I chose one spur road to explore. It didn't work out. Lower down the Lady spotted a spur that possibly led to an outcropping of Bishop Tuff. It would be a great spot to stay, but the road was deep sand and blocked by a gate ahead, visible after we rounded a bend. There was no way to turn around so it was a half mile backup.

"You know," I remarked to the Lady. "This would be great practice for you backing up a long distance using only the two side mirrors."

"You're right. I should," she answered. "It would be good but you are doing such a good job and the sage is so tight against the truck, I don't think I can open the door." She looked over at me and smiled.

The wind had died and the temperature had warmed considerably. Relaxing in the sun around camp in the afternoon sounded so good we drove a bit to a surefire favorite campsite of ours. It was perfect. The Lady relaxed with a book.

We took a long walk after dinner as night descended upon us. The song of a coyote greeted us as we returned in the dark to camp. The stars and sky were amazing.