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We were
cresting the Sierra Nevadas late Friday afternoon. The sky was dark with
storm, the thunderheads building directly above us. Hard chucks of hail blasted
against the windshield, the storm's first onslaught. This quickly turned to
huge raindrops and the Lady and I raced each other to get our windows down to
fill the truck cab and our lungs with the smell of summer rainstorm in the
mountains. This was the perfect start to a quick trip.
Our next two
upcoming weekends are work and teaching. I had put off the Lady on getting away
this last free weekend as we got a handle on prep needs for the upcoming
field class. Thursday afternoon I asked the Lady, "Want to go somewhere
this weekend?" I got the happy hand claps, a big grin, and
"Really!" It is amazing how quickly the truck can be made ready, a
few items in the dry goods bin and a few things out of the home refrigerator
placed in the chest fridge in the camper. Our packs are always ready, a habit
from the Search & Rescue days.
Early
Friday evening found our chairs set up along Green Creek at one of the dispersed sites.
With the
dissipating storm clouds, we wondered what was in store for sunset colors. We
walked along the creek. A beaver moved away from us in deep water. The birds
were busy with their spring time activities. A bright yellow flycatcher remains to be identified. A muskrat scooted across the creek, its nose high, out of the water. The mosquitoes were a pleasant
surprise. Yeah, they were around but really not too bad.
Both the
Carson and Bridgeport districts of the Humboldt Toiyabe National Forest have
wisely gone into fire restrictions on May 30. The signs are up.
Restrictions
include other activities besides campfires -
- Building, maintaining, attending or using a fire (using wood, charcoal or any other material), campfire, or stove fire except a portable stove using gas or pressurized liquid fuel, outside of a developed fee campground or picnic area (except by permit).
- Smoking, except within an enclosed vehicle or at a developed campground or picnic area.
- Welding, or operating an acetylene torch with open flames, except by permit.
- Using or causing to be used, any explosive, except by permit.
- Possession or use of fireworks (always prohibited), or any other incendiary device.
- Use of tracer rounds, steel-core ammunition or exploding targets including Binary Explosive Targets while recreational shooting.
- Open burning (e.g. weeds, brush, and yard debris).
I believe
the current fine is $375 for a campfire and each person at the camp can be
cited, not just the person who built the fire - as in "maintaining,
attending, or using."
The Green
Creek area is heavily used throughout the summer. We were pleasantly surprised
it was fairly quiet this weekend. The small campground at roads end was full, maybe because
they could huddle around campfires here.
We walked
back down the road past our campsite. A shooting barrage unleashed further down
the valley. It was violent. No one in the Green Creek area was untouched by the
noise of the muzzle blasts. It sounded like mostly large caliber semi-auto
handguns. (As an aside, it amazes that people are so dumb. It is easy to count and figure out the size of the clips being used.) They could have been
legal with their shooting in this area but
it was way out of line insofar as being a good neighbor. We felt for the young
father on an evening walk with his toddler daughter through the meadow close to their camp when
the unexpected barrage began.
Early
morning was quiet and just right at our creek side camp.
We set off
on our adventure, hiking into the Hoover Wilderness. We soon arrived at the
major intersection.
This is all
familiar country. We backpack in the heavily used Sierra areas
only in the early season when most are still waiting for the snow to clear. In
2007 (with a pretty normal snowpack) we got our overnight permit for the Fourth of
July holiday. Ice axes allowed us to easily climb up to West Lake and spend
several days in relative solitude. The lake had just cleared of ice. The lakes
in the basin above, including Par Value and Begonia, were still snow covered.
We explored everywhere our legs and skills could take us.
We were
going back to spend the day at West Lake. A cascade of falls mark the outlet
from West Lake, high above Green Lake.
The route up to
West Lake is one of our favorite trails, a well laid out series of short
switchbacks that work their way up steep terrain always keeping to a nice grade
that allows easy breathing and soft conversation. The rock work is excellent
with the trail bed across talus filled with small cobble. We planned our
upcoming summer adventure as we climbed.
"How
'bout we return to the Wind River Range?" I asked the Lady.
She smiled
as I continued, "Remember that lake that held brook trout, big brook
trout, heavy brook trout shaped like footballs?"
"Your
cousin wrote about it in his book," she answered.
"It's
about a day and a half, making good time, hike in with backpacks," I went
on. "That would make a nice five day backpack with explorations to some of
the other high lakes nearby."
"I
would not have thought about returning there. I like that plan!" The Lady
was cheerful. "Let's do that."
"I was
thinking we could explore some new areas for us in the Winds with day hikes
from the camper and also throw in another short backpack if we felt like
it."
It was
settled. It took only four or five switchbacks and our big adventure was
planned.
We arrived
at West Lake's high basin.
West Lake's
inlet also is a series of cascades.
Just before
leaving home Friday afternoon, something drew me to going online and purchasing
my yearly fishing license. West Lake is mentioned in Bill Sunderland's book. I
had spent a couple pleasant evenings in 2007 casting flies and catching trout.
We dropped our packs, the Lady got comfortable, pulled out her book, and made
her nest. I readied my fly rod and tied on a small scud pattern under a strike
indicator. A little movement and a skinny long brook trout was carefully
released. The third brookie was the largest but still not much meat on the
bones.
As I
released this brookie I saw what I had been watching for - a group of six
nice heavy rainbows; heavy for their size, from about 13 to 15 inches long. I
took on the challenge and studied. They methodically moved from the depths into
the shallows. Occasionally one of them would violently explode out of the water
right in front of me. I could not make out what they were taking. I tried four
different dry fly patterns, had it waiting for them as they returned from the
depths. No takes, ignored. I returned to the scud pattern. They were interested
but their takes so gentle I missed setting the hook time after time. Any time
you get to feeling cocky about your skills, just pick up your fly rod and be
humbled. I tried two nymph patterns with no interest at all. The third pattern
got attention and I had a nice fat 14 inch rainbow to release.
I hadn't
moved from my spot for an hour and a half and I finally had success, a perfect
afternoon in wonderful country. I fished for a while longer and returned to the
Lady. She was sound asleep, her book on her chest, completely relaxed,
completely at home. Some high mountain days are made for fly rods and
books.
We started
our journey back with Dunderburg Peak in the distance.
The panorama
unfolded before us as we reached the edge of the basin with Green Lake below.
The length
of Green Creek Valley stretched off to the east.
I focused in
on Dunderburg Peak and Kavanaugh Ridge. We spent one memorable evening sitting
atop the rocky columns on the far left.
We enjoyed
the drop down the trail to Green Lake.
This is one
of our joys in having our camper. There is never a need for a rush to get back
to the trailhead. We get there when we get there. Those hands on the clock
or those digital numbers are put in their place - meaningless. The day is ours,
the whole day.
Dinner was
my favorite for camping, macaroni and cheese. We throw in extra ingredients
like good cheese and some chicken breast. It's a camper staple.
We slept
well. Our muscles felt warm, used, happy. Morning came the way we felt,
unhurried and refreshed.
As the sun
hit the water the midges came to life.
Breakfast
was the Lady's favorite, pancakes with fried eggs. We could not think of a more
beautiful place to sit in the morning's quiet and dine.
Why do we
keep heading out with the camper? Why can't we stay home? With a world like
this to travel through, to live in, to get lost in, how could we ever stay
home?
I've never seen West Lake -- thanks for letting us tag along! Two weeks ago, Kavanaugh Ridge and Dunderberg Peak were covered in at least two feet of snow.
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