North Rim of the Grand Canyon - April 2011 Part 2

 please remember you can click on a photo to see a larger version


The trailhead at Vulcan’s Throne is a several mile drive and takes a bit of time. We were out there around 7:30 am. The Park Service does its best to discourage use of the lava falls route. The trailhead is not signed and it is not listed in Park information. We traveled about a third of a mile down, well away from the trailhead and came upon this sign.

Heed this sign. Take it very seriously. This is not a trail. This is a route. Many of the cairns you will find may not be on route. This is a treacherous and dangerous climb. It is a scramble the entire 2600 feet down on loose awful rock. There are places where rock climbing moves are necessary. If you are not completely confident in your ability to tackle this undertaking, do not attempt this route. Understand the risks and have experience in the desert environment? It is still a lot of work.

As you drop into the Canyon you pass through different life zones. About two thirds of the way down, you reach the ocotillos. They were just starting their bloom. This was incredible in the morning light.

“This is intense! You cannot relax for even a second. Every step needs to be carefully placed. This is intense!” The lady was leading the way. Just when you thought the grade just may lessen, it got steeper.

The last section was on awful gravel along a basalt cliff. As least there were lots of handholds. The Lady hit the bottom first and moved behind a screen of vegetation. I was making my last few moves when I heard the Lady say, “He’s buzzing at me. He’s giving me a warning. Oh, he’s beautiful! He is beautiful! He’s pink! I hope you can get a picture of this rattler!”

It was another Grand Canyon Rattlesnake. They come in different color phases and this coloration looks about perfect for red sandstone. Nature’s adaptations are just incredible. We watched our new friend as he moved under shelter and then we worked our way through the boulders and found a sandy beach at river’s edge.

We snacked, cooled our feet in the river, relaxed. The Colorado is cold. The route hits just upstream from the famed Lava Falls Rapids. Several boats had floated by as we clung to the cliffs, making our way down. The non-commercial boats had eddied out to scout the rapids. “Let’s head down to the rapids and see if we can watch the boaters run it,” I suggested. “Fun!” she replied.

Three boats were tied off on the beach on river right. The three gentlemen were returning from scouting. I think we shocked the hell out of them. They never asked, but their faces said, “Where in the world did you two come from?”

“How does it look? You going to run it now?” The Lady was grinning from ear to ear.

“Yup, we’re getting in the boats right now!” One of the gentlemen replied.

“Oh boy, we’re going to climb down and watch you go through!” She was heading down the trail before they could reply.

This was a working out to be a great trip.

From a distance it looks like a typical rapid. Stand beside it at river’s edge, this thing is big. It is powerful.

The grey cataraft moved into position first. He paused, holding back with the oars. And then he entered.

He took a conservative line on river left. He stair stepped down the drops catching every eddy and perfectly setting up for the next drop. He had complete control of his boat. It was a masterful run.

The red cataraft was next. He set up for the same line. Entering the first drop he lost control on an oar. It went vertical in the water, blade down, immediately ruddering the boat around 180 degrees. He ran Lava Falls Rapids backward as he continued to struggle with the oar. He was tossed out safely at the bottom, a lucky boater.

When the gentleman in the oar boat pulled back on the oars at the top to set up his line, we could see this was going to be different. He had come to Lava Falls to raft.

His was a line on river right, just off from the main tongue down the center. It was well done, our friend, very well done!

Could this have been any better of a day? Temps in the low 80’s, cold water to dangle the feet, sandy beach to lie back on, excitement of watching boaters match their skill against the Colorado, this was a great day!

We just had to get our butts back out of this canyon.

There was one spot on the descent where the route intersected a steep ridge. There were cairns below which led in to a steep gully that soon cliffed out. Not the way to go. There was a notch in the ridge to the right and a vertical drop of about 12 feet with an overhang. This led to a wider gully, could this be the way? Yes it was. On the way back up I took a few photos of the Lady handling this obstacle.

I hoisted the packs up after her and then it was my turn. Actually the rock here was pretty solid with strong hand and foot holds. Going up was much easier, we knew the route, set a comfortable pace, stopped for some water every half hour, and we were up.

We reached the truck, changed out of our boots and hiking clothes, and headed out.

The BLM’s Arizona Strip map is a must to have if you are traveling out in this huge area. But, still you will find roads that are not signed or that no longer exist. Venturing off of the main road, you need to be up on your navigation skills.

By late afternoon we were set up for the night, all by ourselves, right on the Park boundary, in a nice dispersed camping spot among the junipers and pinyon pines.

This was also at 6000 feet at the top of the plateau. Those 1700 feet above Tuweep’s elevation made a difference. This was a cold night, but the coyotes sang us to sleep.

What would be in store for the ski3piners for Wednesday?  Would they take a day off for rest?

"There's a large animal in the road ahead," the Lady said.

"Is it a cat?" I asked quick as I looked up from driving - negotiating the ruts, rocks, and tree limbs. We figured the 5 or 6 mile drive in to this remote trail head on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon would take us a bit over an hour. This was proving about right as we traveled along the plateau riddled with pinyons, junipers, and sage in the early morning light. We were searching for our own private piece of Grand Canyon National Park.

"No, it's a bear. It moves like a bear. It's a bear". The Lady knows animals.

I saw the rump about 20 yards ahead. He glanced over his shoulder and looked at us and stepped off the road into the sage and completely disappeared. It was a bear. Bears are incredible creatures.

I won’t give you specific details on where we went. Wouldn’t want to spoil your fun and with a map this should be easy to figure out. Figuring stuff out, that’s part of the trip, right?

We had greatly enjoyed the Tuckup Trail along the plateau. Grab your Vulcans Throne and Fern Glen Canyon quads and take a look at the trail as it continues along the inner plateau to the east. We didn’t see anyone on the trail out from Tuweep, head out further and the odds for solitude would be even better. It winds around long side canyons, there are springs to find, and it even takes you in the vicinity of the dome.  We were heading to a trailhead for a trail that dropped from the high plateau down to the inner plateau and intersected with the Tuckup Trail. Yup, we were heading back down.

After dropping down a couple of short steep sections the trail took a gentler grade and dropped into a wide open canyon with cliffs above. It was big country.

And like other spots in the Grand Canyon, everything was so fascinating.

In such a broad piece of the inner canyon, we figured this area had to have signs of recent human use. We soon found evidence.

Wildflowers were all around. As we got back down in the red sandstone belt, we came upon these beauties.

After about 3 or 4 miles we reached the red sandstone with overhangs and ledges and found this area mesmerizing. We explored around and then just found a nice place to sit.

We snacked and napped and the Lady put in some time with her book. But mostly we just sat and watched the world and listened to the sounds, the wind, the birds. We watched the shadows move across the rocks.

On our way back out there was a spot I wanted to check out that we had seen in the distance. It just looked like a great place for someone to live. My hunch was right. There was evidence of the remains of an old wall and the kitchen was still intact in the middle, left untouched for who knows how many years.

I am giving no information about the location or further photos. These are extremely special archeological treasures. When we come upon arc sites, it is my habit to treat these sites the same as if I had come upon a crime scene. Stop, don’t touch anything, record the location, take notes, take pictures – remember you stopped, you are not moving, so only from your initial vantage point – and back out exactly the way you came in. I will send a note to the Park archeology department along with copies of all the photos I took here. It is likely this is a known site but perhaps the photos can help with a date reference and help document any change. Bottom line, these sites are so special and to find one completely untouched is a special occurrence. It was left exactly the way we found it.

This had been another exceptional day in Grand Canyon. We were having incredible adventures with wonderful surprises around every corner.

The angle of the afternoon sun told us it was time to head back up.

Back at the truck we decided we’d have dinner on the rim and watch the sunset. We were completely alone.

And for our last morning at Grand Canyon, Thursday, it just was so fitting to have breakfast at sunrise on the edge.

As we were packing up, preparing to end our visit to Grand Canyon, the Lady’s eyes sparkled as she said, “This was such a great time and it was wonderful to learn there is so much more to the Grand Canyon than just the ‘big ditch’!”

We had a few days of travel ahead to get back home. Thursday was to be a day of exploring western history.

After so many days, when we hit the pavement back on Highway 389, it felt so strange and smooth. We headed back through Hurricane and then on through Saint George. We headed up Highway 18 toward Enterprise, Utah. Our first stop was Mountain Meadows Massacre site. Lots of new memorials have gone up here since the late 1990’s.

For us the most thought provoking and humbling were the small personal memorials placed by relatives of the two slain leaders of the doomed emigrant party.

From here we headed to find a very special spot along the historic “Old Spanish Trail” that ran from Santa Fe to Los Angeles. The spot we were looking for lies between Enterprise and Newcastle, Utah.

This was where the lost 49ers including Manly & Rogers, the Bennett & Arcan Party, and the Jayhawkers, left the wagon train led by Jefferson Hunt, a Mormon who had been hired by the group to lead them from Salt Lake to Southern California. This was the start of the infamous shortcut that ultimately led them into Death Valley.

From here we went west into Nevada and to find a spot to spend the night. We thought we’d check out Cathedral Gorge, a Nevada State Park.

We were unsure about campground living after our last experience. We pulled into the visitor center and the very helpfully woman said, “Go in, check it out, I think only a few sites are taken. If you want to stay, just pick a site and you pay there.” We thanked her and the Lady read the brochure as we drove in. “It says here there are showers at the campground.” “Really,” I replied. “We’ll have to check that out.”

The campground was quiet, the restroom was heated and the showers were free; hot showers and hot water in the sinks. Seven bucks to enter the park and seventeen to camp. The empty sites were all freshly raked. The gravel had been raked smooth. This place is well cared for.

We enjoyed our showers, had supper, grabbed the camera and did the four mile loop trail up the canyon in the evening light.

Cathedral Gorge is just east of what people like to call Area 51. One of the state highways that runs up to Highway 6 is called the extraterrestrial highway. People see strange lights in the sky around these parts. Watch the skies when you stay here. Trust me.

The next morning, after wiggling out of the sleeping bags, we headed for the restrooms. It was cold, in the thirties. The Lady said she’d meet me back at the camper. When I got back, she was busy at the stove.

“I’m making them hot chocolate.”

“Making who hot chocolate?” I asked.

“The site with the minivan and tent across the way. They came in after dark. As I was coming back the man asked if I could give him a sauce pan to heat water. He wanted to make hot chocolate for his kids. He was to meet a friend who didn’t show. The friend was to bring the cooking pots. He has a son about 8 and triplets that look to be about 3. He has his hands full. I told him I’d be happy to make chocolate for him."

She picked up a box of Quik and showed it to me.

“He gave me this, looks like he just grabbed stuff at the grocery store. He must not know this mixes with milk. I’m making them all hot chocolate from our stuff.”

The four cups were soon steaming and the Lady said, “You’re going to help me carry all this over to them.”

We are going to remember this place as a good overnight stop.

Our destination for today was the middle of Nevada. We needed a hot spring soak.

When the air temperature is 40, this sure feels good.

From here we headed to the sink in the Monitor Valley basin. We enjoy the Basin and Range. Finding the sink filling with water from winter run off along with waterfowl and with the striking mountain ranges on both sides, we figured if the clouds cleared some overnight this would be a spectacular place to watch the sunrise.

We had dinner and the wind increased. “Do you think it is blowing a storm in or a storm out?” I asked.

“We’ll probably find out,” she answered.

With snow coming down in the morning, the question was answered.

Our drive home was uneventful through snow and rain.

We traveled 1743 miles. We averaged 17.04 mpg. We paid $400 for gas. With breakfast in Bridgeport, a couple of blocks of ice and fresh vegetables from the market in Hurricane, and the Cathedral Gorge fee, this vacation cost around $500.

It was one of our best trips. We are rested. We are happy. Travel safe and we hope you've enjoyed our story.

North Rim of the Grand Canyon - April 2011 Part 1

please remember you can click on a photo to see a larger version

 

 

We have long time friends who have traveled quite a bit, first with their growing kids and tents, and now with a large cabover camper on a two wheel drive pickup. They were the first to tell us about Toroweap on Grand Canyon’s north rim. They said, “Go, we think you would really like it.”

And then this busy winter MarkBC made a post on Wander the West about Toroweap and his planning to visit there. Upon seeing the post the Lady said, “We could make it there for my spring break trip, couldn’t we?” Excitement was building. “And wouldn’t we be close to Hoover Dam so we could walk over that new big bridge that we saw being built? Isn’t it done now?” She was smiling. We brought out a map and roughed out driving distances, checked on agency websites for information, and the trip planning was in full swing.

In typical fashion, we launched from here well before dawn on Saturday, April 16. We enjoy getting breakfast out the first day of a trip and the Hays Street Café in Bridgeport is a favorite. We were there shortly after they opened at seven.

It’s rare that we drive in a metropolitan area. “I don’t want to drive through Las Vegas; can I drive from Beatty until we get close?” “Sure, that’d be fine”, I said, but I wasn’t looking forward to it either. It’s funny that we’re completely at home on rough back roads but freeways, traffic, noise, that’s foreign and scary territory. The bright lights of Vegas here we come!

Smooth sailing through Vegas, the poor suckers in the north bound lanes weren’t so lucky.

After getting our camper searched at the security check point on the Hoover Dam access road and being asked, “Do you have any guns, ammunition, or cans of gasoline?,” we found the parking area for the bridge walkway.

The exhibits and walkway are really very well done. You just have to love late afternoon light in the desert.

All the different views of Hoover Dam from this vantage point made for some fun photography.

The bridge walkway was crowded; this must be a popular short trip from Vegas. The weather was warm. This was a good start to the trip.

Well, you guessed it; we didn’t want to head back into Vegas. At the first opportunity in Boulder City we turned into the Lake Mead National Recreation Area and headed north along the huge reservoir. The further we drove, the less traffic, and soon we found ourselves about the only vehicle on North Shore Road, newly paved and with concrete curbs. This is a pretty drive. You don’t often see Mead, but the ever changing landscape holds your eye. We would occasionally spot a signed dirt road leading away from the pavement and finally one called to us. It led up a broad wash with deep gravel and we found an out of the way spot for the night.

We did not see another person during our stay here. This was going to be a great trip. After washing up and supper, we rambled the hills and watched the sunset and the world grow dark.

It’s our habit to awake at 5 am, brew a cup of coffee and go for a walk and just watch and feel life change from night to day. This morning was pretty near perfect. We were rested. We were happy. We were on vacation.  And, after the spring that will never come at home, we had slept in the camper with all the windows open, only the screen door closed, and laying on top of the sleeping bags…….ahhhhh.

Sunday we continued out the North Shore Road until we were finally on Interstate 15 and headed to Saint George and the turn off to Hurricane, Utah, the home of Chums, the eyeglasses holder. Chums used to have a lifetime guarantee, send back an old beat up pair with a story about how you wore them out and you’d get a new pair. No choice on color, but so what! The Lady was taking them at their word. Her school kids would tell stories and laugh about the funny colors of her chums. It was fun while it lasted. Alas, those days are gone.

There is a Chevron Station at Pipe Springs. This is a good place to gas up before the 65 mile drive out to Tuweep. They also have a convenient water faucet for topping off all your tanks, your last chance. The Park seems to use “Tuweep” saying that “Toroweap” is the valley and the point that sits above.

This being spring break for many we were concerned that the Tuweep Campground would be full. There are only nine sites, first come basis. There is one site large groups can reserve. Thinking the campground would be full, our plan was to camp out on BLM land and plan on being at the campground around 9:30 am Monday, probably a good turnover time. We had made good time with this day’s travels, it was mid afternoon, and we decided to go all the way in and check it out, we had plenty of daylight for a plan B. This was a very good decision.

We found only three sites occupied, and one other couple came in and took a site about dinner time. The campground was half full this Sunday night. This was a good trip.

This is site seven at Tuweep Campground. Sites are small with a table and fire ring. There is no charge for camping or entering the National Park in this area.

We stayed in site eight just around the corner.

After getting settled, we took at walk out to the point and made a new acquaintance along the way. This is a Grand Canyon Rattlesnake, a unique species with beautiful markings. We really liked the two stripes across the face.

Besides the half or three quarter mile walk out to the main Tuweep Point, there are a couple of marked trails starting from the campground. One leads out to Saddleback Point and loops out to the road near Tuweep Point. We enjoyed a nice supper sitting in our chairs out on the redrock. The campground was quiet. It seemed everyone was content and just in awe of this wonderful place. We put the camera on the tripod and headed out to Saddleback Point to see what the sunset light would offer.

Last light on the south rim.

The incredible glow in the canyon after sunset.

The top of the plateau in this area is littered with potholes, at this time of the year many are still filled with water.

This was a spectacular end to only the second night of our trip. We sat out on the point until well after dark. We did not want to leave. Finally we walked back with no need for our headlamps; we climbed on top of our sleeping bags in the camper, and called it a good day, a very good day, indeed.

Day three –

Right after waking, the Lady wiggled a bit and got the flame going under the coffee water. “You get out with the camera. I’ll be right behind you with the coffee.” Soon we were both out in the desert air of dawn. The eastern sky slowly brightened.

And then the sunrise. This was taken about ten yards from our camp. Position your bed right and you can probably catch a sunrise as you awake.

Our plan for today was to hike. From our adventures in the Canyon from the South Rim we had enjoyed the Tonto Trail along the inner canyon plateau. Here at Tuweep were we on the corresponding plateau on the north side of the river and far west from the South Rim. The Tuckup Trail runs to the east from Tuweep along this plateau. This is where we would explore all day.

Toroweap Point above the Tuckup Trail.

There was a diverse array of wildflowers.

I always get a feeling of timelessness at the Grand Canyon. I feel like I am on ancient ground. Hiking, I was lost in these thoughts when the Lady, ahead, said, “What is this little guy?” Like a kid she already had the baby dinosaur in hand.

On this cool morning it looked like this little horned lizard enjoyed the warmth of the Lady’s hand.

If you stay at Tuweep, we highly recommend you hike at least 3 miles or so out the Tuckup Trail. Here the Trail finally winds close to the main canyon edge, high and directly above the Colorado. Walk out to the first point and you will find an oven built from native sandstone and about six feet in height. I wanted to believe it to be of ancient origin, but the Lady, standing on top and looking down inside said, “Yeah, but how ‘bout the metal grill inside?” Continue to the edge, off trail, and along the red sandstone and the views into the canyon get better and better.

The Lady was ahead, in heaven, excited to see what the next view would be, and then sat down to just take it all in.

I wandered up taking more photos and said, “So you just sat down right on the edge with your feet dangling 3000 feet above the river?” She looked completely at home.

“Yes, but it is a little bit spooky!”

If you work this edge out to the east you should end up on the point overlooking the Colorado and Big Cove.

All this area, as is the Tuweep area, is covered on the USGS Vulcan’s Throne quad. Recommended if you hike in this area.

Make it this far out the trail if you can. We were completely alone out here this day, this huge expanse all to ourselves with new vistas around every corner. We continued out a few miles further to just about the top of Big Cove. We explored redrock ledges and snacked and napped under overhangs. We watched the light move across the canyon as morning changed to afternoon. All too soon it was time to wander back toward the campground.

This was the only downside to our trip. Upon returning to the campground we found the entire character had changed. The campground was full, continuously barking dogs, too many people crowded into sites, and not a moment’s quiet. How would the Ski3piners cope? Would a happy ending evolve?

We got back to our campsite late afternoon. Tiny site 9 and the reservation only site 10 were both empty. Our clue that things were different was the constant barking of dogs. The composting toilet sits around the corner across from site 7. Needing a visit, I stepped around the corner to find all the other sites filled and a line of vehicles coming in the rough narrow road. As soon as I came into view, another dog announced my presence. “The world has changed here,” I told the Lady on my return. “I can already tell by the noise,” she replied. This has to be an age old question and don’t get me wrong, I’m really a tolerant person. I even like dogs, well at least the well behaved ones. Why to people bring their constantly barking dogs with them, dogs they have no ability to control? There were folks in site 1 with a dog, at least on a leash, that constantly barked and they constantly yelled at it to stop. I could figure out the dog wasn’t listening and had no concept of obeying a command; continuously yelling at it was no route to a solution. They could not? Another couple had a huge dog with them, off leash, at site 5. People on that side of campground passed site 5 on the way to the restroom. They had to. Every time someone passed by the huge beast would confront the person by approaching with a menacing bark, the owners darting around trying to grab the dog. This would, of course electrify the dog human chorus across the way. We became pretty adept at hearing the clues. “Some poor person has to use the crapper,” one of us would say as a chorus of barking dogs and human yells echoed across the broad expanse of the Grand Canyon.

And then they showed up.

Three vehicles came by. The first two were new, almost matching except for color, Toyota FJ things with every add on gadget/accessory available to properly outfit them to tame the savage wilderness. I should have taken a picture, but I just couldn’t do it. One was pulling a pop up camp trailer. They were followed by a Subaru Outback. There is barely space at site 9 for the allowed two vehicles. The women folk piled out and headed for the toilet at a fast clip. Several dogs feverously announced their need and the big dog’s owners got some exercise. A newly arrived mid size dog started through our camp, a flanking maneuver to keep up with one of the husbands, moving fast also showing signs of the delay of a necessary bathroom break. I stood up and stopped the man.

“Sir, could you please do something for me? I’d really appreciate it.”

“What?”

“Would you please put your dog on a leash?”

“Yeah, I think we probably have one somewhere in the car. Why should I put my dog on a leash?”

“Well, it is the rule. You are in a National Park. Dogs are to be kept on a leash at all times. I’d really appreciate it if you could do this for me. And if you need, all the tables have the rules on them just like our table here.” I pointed out the sign.

“Okay, I’ll put the dog on a leash.”

“Thanks.”

He really was a nice guy and this was not a confrontational encounter. But as the evening progressed, both dogs were soon wandering about, unattended.

They set up camp and openly discussed how to get around the 6 people, 2 vehicle limit. Someone was aware of the rules. They discussed moving into the reserved site that was empty, until a moment later and three vehicles showed up, the people with reservations for site 10. With jockeying of vehicles and hiding a couple of tents in brush away from the campground they were satisfied with their planning and settled in to………………..talk incessantly. They never stopped. I got away for a little while to find where they had parked the Subaru. I was just curious. They were good. I did not find it.

Basically, these were good people. They treated their kids well, invited them into conversations. They just did not have a clue.

We had to get away. We fixed supper, grabbed our chairs and went a couple of hundred yards out on the sandstone, away, and ate. We came back and grabbed the camera, tripod, and walked out to the Point, wondering if we’d get another spectacular sunset. We weren’t disappointed.

Evening light to the west, down canyon.

And the Lady enjoying a classic Tuweep sunset.

Any cares that the busy campground may have brought, quickly faded with the brightening evening colors.

We stayed out again until it was dark, the world on the Point was quiet, still with the approaching night.

As we walked back the Lady said she would really like to be away from the noise, the people.

“How ‘bout we pack up early, drive to the trailhead, climb down the Lava Falls Route tomorrow, and then head out to that remote trailhead and find a dispersed camping spot? We could be alone, just us?” she asked.

“Sounds like a good plan.” I answered.

Happy with our decision we walked backed to camp, saying quiet prayers hoping that alcohol wasn’t kicking in at site 9.

Tuesday morning, we wiggled and stretched, the stove was ignited with the promise of coffee, and we climbed out of the sack, quiet to respect the still sleeping neighbors and dogs. Breakfast, pack up, clean up, morning light, and taking a few moments just to stand out on the sandstone together in the first rays of the sun, and it was time to go.

This is really a special place. Put it on your list.

The story continues in Part 2 - Click Here