Colorado - Summer 2010 Part Two

 

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Saturday, Mount Harvard, 14,420 feet, 14 miles round trip 4500 vertical feet gain and loss.

This was probably the best day of the 14ers climbs, for surprising reasons. We started out before dawn at 5:30. The trail stays fairly level for a couple miles before climbing into the high Horn Creek Basin. Very quickly it was obvious the Lady was not feeling good. She is one fit determined Lady and was mad for feeling the way she did. It was time for her to turn around. Disappointment. Tears. She and I headed back to camp.

Stew and Fastshot decided they would continue on - the weather was good. They said they would at least like to get up into into the high basin. The Lady and I slowly wandered back to the trailhead, left a note on Fastshot's rig (stating we were returning to camp), and hiked back to our camp where the Lady slept hard for several hours. I read and listened to the buzz of the hummingbirds.

In the afternoon, the Lady felt like trying to eat; we put the camp chairs next to the creek and relaxed and waited for the boys. And waited.

It was the day of the Geezers! Dusty, tired, they drove in at 5:30 in the afternoon, thumbs up and grins a mile wide. Eleven and a half hours round trip to the summit of Harvard. We were so happy for them.

Here are a few photos that Fastshot passed on about the boys' day of triumph.

Here's high above timberline looking ahead at the route to the summit.

A summit shot back down Horn Creek Basin and their route up. Another worthy fourteener, Mount Columbia is on the left.

Stew is working on the final scramble to the summit.

Bear Lake and many other climbers far below.

Stew the man, with a well deserved thumbs up.

The Harvard Graduates, Fastshot and Stew at 14,420 feet.

I won't speak of Stew's age but he does have a geezer card. I am 57. Fastshot is eleven years my senior. Impressive job boys!

It was a great day! We then cleaned up, hopped in Fastshot's rig, and drove up toward Cottonwood Pass to join Fastshot's daughter's camping group for a great dinner.

Tuesday, we (Ski3pin, the Lady, and Fastshot) hoisted the packs on our backs and hiked into the Mt. Zirkel Wilderness. We hiked back out the following Tuesday. Wilderness fly fishing, exploring and hiking, solitude, high country visuals, rejuvenating our souls. These were our goals.

Cutthroat cruising the shallows. The Lady called them "Osprey Bait."

Atop the Continental Divide looking toward the home waters on the Pacific side.

One thousand one, one thousand "BOOM!" One thousand "BOOM!" We wondered if Stew was also counting the seconds between the lightning flash and the thunder.

Our adventure into the Mount Zirkel Wilderness left us with moments we will not forget.

Wilderness fly fishing. I love to sight fish for large trout in crystal clear water. Spot a nice trout, figure out what it is feeding on, a good presentation usually demands a lot of stealth and long fine tippets. The fishing in Mt. Zirkel I would rate as good, for mostly Cutthroats. I caught a few large Rainbows and a few Cuttbows. In three days of serious fishing I caught about 48 fish. Most were in the 14" to 18" range. I caught only four or five smaller. Fastshot caught a couple 20"ers. Many were on the thin side, maybe not fattened up yet after a long winter. My largest was a 18" female Cutthroat, easily twice as heavy as any other trout I caught here. Nice and fat.

My most satisfying morning of fly fishing was on this meadow stream. These were very demanding conditions with the slow moving clear water. A wise angler carefully approaches and then spends time observing before beginning to fish. Fly fishing this morning was as close to perfection as I have experienced with careful presentations in gin clear water without spooking the fish and catching and releasing two large cutthroats..

All trout were carefully released.

Our last evening.

Our last morning.

Please allow me to tell one story. One thing I've mentioned before is one of the joys of exploring is the chance to meet different people. My brother Fastshot wanted to see the Continental Divide. On Sunday he and I hiked up. The ridge top is wide, a couple of feet under 12,000 feet. The Continental Divide/ Wyoming Trail runs along the top.

Here's the story:

As we walked north on the Continental Divide, we watched as a pack string with two riders came slowly gaining on us;  lots of room to move off the trail on this rolling terrain, no problem there. We ambled along enjoying the walk. I heard something on the wind.

“Hear that?” I asked.

“Hear what? Fastshot countered.

“The voice I heard. One of those cowboys is a cowgirl.”

“Well, we have to stop. I reckon it wouldn’t be neighborly of us not to stop and chat with these pilgrims”, Fastshot said. He was grinning big. He does not like to pass on a chance of meeting a woman.

As they got closer, yes, the rider behind was a lady, slim and tall and drinking from a can of Budweiser.

They pulled up beside us and the man grinned and said “Howdy”, slow and purposefully, just as a cowboy should.

“How ya doing?” Fastshot asked.

Before either of them could answer, I caught the lady’s eye. “Ma’am” I said, “Not to be too forward, but we stopped because we heard the sweet sound of a woman’s voice on the breeze. We wanted to meet you.”

A wide smile brightened her face. The Irish Wolfhound walked over to Fastshot and gave him his head for a little gentle rubbing.

“These Irish are the best dogs aren’t they? Great dispositions. How old is he?” Fastshot talked as he rubbed the big dog’s chin. The large dog made Fastshot look small.

“He’s about five. Hey you guys want a beer?” the cowboy was opening up a pack.

Fastshot replied, “If I had a beer, I’d lay down right here and go to sleep. Probably be a long time before I woke up!”

“Well then, take some back to camp for later. We have a lot more beer than we can drink!”

“Friend”, I said, “Thank you very much, but no. It is very kind of you to offer.”

“Well, we do have another dog in a pack here, you want to see him?”

“Another dog?” I asked.

“Yep, a hound pup. We thought we would let him ride. He’s right in here.” The cowboy reached over to a pack flap. A hound’s head lazily popped out.

We chatted a bit more. The stock was getting antsy, they wanted to either eat or move.

“Best be goin’”, the cowboy said.

“Ma’am, it was nice to meet you and it was nice to hear your voice up here. Thank you.” I said.

“What did you hear?” she asked. This was the first time she had spoke since they stopped.

Fastshot jumped in, “Just the sweet refrain of a woman’s voice.”

“You didn’t hear what I said?”

“No, we didn’t”, I answered.

She just smiled, took a sip of her beer, and they headed off to the north.

We parted ways with Fastshot in Walden. It was time for the Lady and me to head home, We had a few days, no real need to hurry. I'll share a few of our stops.

The remains of Camp Hale, the 10th Mountain Division's WWII training camp is on highway 24, south of Minturn and Interstate 70. My Dad's brother, my uncle who I am named after, was in the 10th. The Lady and I ski and mountaineer so we have connections.

The thunderstorms subsided so we could spend a couple of hours here. This place evokes emotions of all sorts. There appears to be lots of opportunity here for dispersed camping but looks also to be heavily used by the ATV crowd. We headed up to Tennessee Pass.

We headed over Tennessee Pass and down through Leadville, thinking about getting a spot below Independence Pass to camp for the night. Black and ugly clouds, thunder and lightning, incredible downpours, hail, flash flood warnings; thanks Stew! We got a motel in Buena Vista, their last room.  We had a great dinner in downtown at Mother's Bistro. Got drenched on the walk back to our room. Another long hot shower. It was good.

Whenever we pass through Glenwood Springs, we think about Doc Holliday. On the northeast corner of Grand Ave and 8th St., downtown Glenwood, is Summit Canyon Mountaineering, a gear shop we stop in at. As you enter the corner door off the street look down and to the left. There is a small sign that reads "Doc Holliday died here on Nov. 8, 1887." Doc's Grave is in the Linwood Cemetery. Walk east on 11th street and up a hill to pay your respects to this probably questionable character.

That night we camped up on the Grand Mesa, south of Interstate 70 on highway 65, east of Grand Junction. This place is grand, indeed. A basalt mesa 10,800 feet high, alpine tundra, big game, lakes, fishing. In the morning we drove out to Lands End overlooking Grand Junction. The views are incredible, including the Wilson group of 14ers, Uncompahgre Peak, the La Sal Mountains, Colorado National Monument.

and the old Lands End Observatory.

In the early morning, Golden Eagles glided right along the edge of the mesa.

Our last night was spent in Great Basin National Park, but not out of Baker, Nevada. Having an interest in native trout of the west, I have read about the reintroduction of Bonneville Cutthroat in streams that fall down out of the Snake Range, including those in Great Basin National Park. I have wanted to get up into Strawberry Creek and I had heard there were 3 or 4 dispersed campsites available. We found the turn off of highway 50. It is now marked, and the dirt road goes up about 5 miles in to a hiking trailhead. Almost to the end, a road goes off to the right and in about 200 yards to a grove of aspen, an old corral, a fire ring, two tables. The Lady says it was her favorite camping spot of the whole trip for the camper. We made dinner while the thunderstorm passed, and then wandered to enjoy the evening light. This was a weekend and there was no one else along this road.

And, as the storm passed............................

Sunday afternoon, we are almost home. We turned off of highway 50 in South Lake Tahoe onto Pioneer Trail and into a hell of a thunderstorm. We heard later that the mast of a sailboat was struck by lightning sinking the boat. We are not blaming Stew. But, we have not seen a drop of rain since we arrived home.

And, with this, the end of our adventure.

Colorado - Summer 2010 Part One

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The Lady & I were heading to the Rockies and starting our trip with climbing a few of Colorado's high 14ers. We received a note from Stew saying he'd like to meet up with us and try a couple of 14ers. We had no apprehension about meeting up with a stranger based on getting to know folks through photos and postings on the Wander the West website. Also joining us was my brother "Fastshot", a now retired resident of Colorado who has joined the Lady and me on many summer Wilderness backpack trips.

Yes, we did go through Aspen. Not having a lot of interest in all the impressive private jets at the airport, we ventured up highway 82 and spent a pleasant afternoon walking around the Independence ghost town.

On summer weekends docents from the Aspen Historical Society help with providing information.

The setting is beautiful alpine terrain. Accessing and visiting the site should be fairly easy for most folks.

Our next stop was Independence Pass, one of the highest paved road over the Continental Divide.

At 12,095 feet in elevation surrounded by higher terrain and peaks, although crowded (and rightly so), you should stop and spend time here. Watch the weather; no, you don't want to be in a thunderstorm up here. Also watch other drivers on this twisty mountain road - enough said, we've all seen it.

There are trails you can take to hike away from the crowds at the parking lot and very soon leave everyone behind. This is what we did.

Late afternoon we drove down the east side of the pass. We were pleased to find short spur roads off of 82 that gave access to some nice dispersed camping spots along the North Fork Lake Creek. We found a great site near where Graham Gulch enters the North Fork and enjoyed a great Sunday evening. Monday we were to meet the two "boys" in Leadville.

Early Monday we explored up the Halfmoon Creek Road out of Leadville where both the Mt.Elbert and Mt. Massive trailheads are located. We wanted to check out camping opportunities early in the day as climbing 14ers has become a tourist industry in Colorado and the access points can be busy. We had three rigs, the two pop up campers and Fastshot was towing a pop up tent trailer. Looking it over we liked 2 sites in the Elbert Creek Campground. It was easy walking to both trailheads. Both campsites were close to each other but secluded from other campers. We're not really campground fans but these worked well. We claimed them, paid up for a couple days, and headed to Leadville to round everyone up.

That's when we heard about the "geezer card". The Golden Age Pass, or whatever it is currently called. At 62 years of age, ten bucks, good for life. Besides no entry fees, you get half off at campgrounds. A great deal! Hell, I might want to get old now. Well, we heard about them, the guys were pleased to have them. Out of deep respect for Stew and Fastshot, they will be called "The Geezers"!

Tuesday well before dawn.We got going on the 14ers. Mt. Elbert, 14,443 feet, the highest is first. 12 mile or so round trip. 4300 vertical feet gain and loss. Stew had some concerns on how he would do and asked that we not worry about him, he would go at his own pace, as far as he felt like.

Here the Geezers are above timberline and point the way to the top. That high point you see is no where near the top of Elbert.

Broken clouds this early morning that we hoped would burn off. Shafts of morning light would spectacularly light up the Upper Arkansas River Valley around Leadville.

The wildflowers were very special amid the alpine tundra. The Lady told me these are Aspen Sunflowers.

As we climbed the views opened up and were outstanding. Mt. Massive to the right of the North Fork Halfmoon Creek basin to the north........

................and the upper reaches of South Fork Halfmoon Creek to the east.

And as we enjoyed the summit, guess who showed up just a little behind us? Stew, the geezer. Good for him and it was a pleasure to share the summit with Stew! There were also about 30 boy scouts and maybe 20 or so other people - all on cell phones, "Guess where I'm calling from!"

Stew's the man!

Here's a summit shot the of the new buddies, Stew, the Lady & Ski3pin.

Just off the summit the Lady exclaimed, "Look at the Sky Pilots! I just love Sky Pilots!"

We relaxed, enjoyed the weather, and stayed on top about an hour and a half. Then, it was time to start back down.

With the weather holding, why hurry?

Tomorrow, Wednesday, the second highest, Mount Massive 14,421 feet.

Wednesday morning, the routine continued, up well before dawn, with an early start on the trail. One exception, Stew has called a rest day for hisownself and will relax around camp for the day.

We were impressed with the Mt. Massive Trail and the views once we reached timberline. Even if you are not interested in making the summit, consider venturing above timberline on this trail and experiencing the incredible open vistas. Our socks were knocked off, we're still trying to find them!

There were low clouds and fog early on but we had hope the weather would improve with the sun coming through.

Above timberline we discovered some of the largest Colorado Columbines we have seen.

As we climbed higher toward the saddle between Mt. Massive and South Massive, we kept an eye on the weather trend.

Clouds thickening, lowering, darkening - bad signs. We decided to turn around just below the saddle.

High alpine adventures should include face time with the "whistle pig".

The long drop back to timberline with Twin Lakes far to the south. No disappointment in not making the summit. Not getting fried in an electrical storm is always more important. And, just being able to travel and visit areas like this is ample reward.

Back down below timberline the storm hit. We snacked and filtered drinking water at a stream crossing and enjoyed the Blue Bells in the rain.

Next, La Plata Peak, fifth highest.

Thursday, La Plata Peak, 14,336 feet, Colorado's fifth highest. We discussed moving to a closer campsite, but Stew wisely counseled that we had a great camp and the drive to the trailhead on highway 82 would be offset by all the time involved in packing up and moving. It is good to have a geezer along. He was earning the Guinness we had picked up for him and Fastshot in Leadville. So we stayed two more nights at Elbert Creek and celebrated the advantages of geezer cards.

What was great about this trailhead is the view of the destination ahead. Here is the summit of La Plata Peak just as the morning sun hits


.

This is an incredible trail that we really enjoyed. Below timberline the trail climbs steeply along La Plata Gulch Creek. The trail has been constructed with log cribbing forming steep big steps. Imagine climbing the stairs to reach the top of the Empire State Building, except starting at 11,000 feet. This was fun. Here's a photo from on our way down to give you an idea.

After the steep section, the trail opened up into an alpine basin with a view of the upper reaches of La Plata Gulch. The bulk of La Plata Peak is in the shade to the left.

The asters among the rocks were a delight in the early morning.

With Seyres Peak at 13,738 feet at the head of La Plata Gulch in sunshine, we were hoping for good weather to summit.

The trail leaves the Gulch and goes, in a series of short steep switchbacks, straight up a chute, climbing toward a saddle on the northwest ridge.

The views and wildflowers along the trail heading for the saddle are well worth the effort to venture up here.

Just below the saddle it was obvious the weather was worsening with wind increasing, the temperature dropping dramatically, and a line of rain and sleet approaching.

We turned around. The storm hit. We were pounded with wind and rain; just another day in the mountains.

Last photo is Fastshot handling the crossing of La Plata Gulch Creek on the return.

Stew was holding down the fort back at camp, taking advantage of another rest day.

Friday was a moving day to find a suitable camping spot near the trailhead for Harvard Peak on the North Fork of Cottonwood Creek. Harvard Peak at 14,420 feet is Colorado's third highest.

We packed up and arrived in Buena Vista around mid morning. Stew and I took our rigs up North Fork Cottonwood Creek Road (FS 365) to check on camping opportunities, leaving Fastshot and the Lady to wander about civilization. We also wanted to make sure the road could accommodate Fastshot's trailer.

This road ascends a fairly narrow valley. About a mile below the trailhead we found an excellent dispersed site; large, open, flat, along the creek, and unoccupied. This is one of only two or three camping areas along the entire road, and the best. We considered ourselves lucky. Stew claimed the spot with his rig, started setting up, and I drove back down to Buena Vista (not really that far) to collect the city folk.

Stew travels with a pretty complete natural history reference library. After we set up, he called our attention to the hummingbird wars going on in a large bush in the riparian area. He had been relaxing, sitting under his awning, studying the situation. He now had it figured out. Red-naped Sapsuckers had been working on the lower branches, carving their parallel openings, and sucking sap. Turns out Rufus Hummingbirds and the interloping Broad-tailed Hummingbirds like this sap also - like it a lot! We were spectators to a bit of a territory battle. The male Rufus makes an interesting buzz noise in flight. It was almost continuous here. We soon considered this liquid must be intoxicating and addicting. They sure were enjoying it, wanted more; it had the feelings of Wander the West rallies I had heard about.

Juvenile Red-naped Sapsucker opening the "bottle".

Male Rufus Hummingbird taking a rest from the fray.......

...and a female Broad-tailed. Wonder what she is thinking?

Friday evening provided some of the nicest evening light we had thus far experienced in Colorado.

Hare bells at sunset with the silhouette of Birthday Peak to the east.

As the sun dropped, wonderful colors spilled across the clouds overhead.

This is our camp as dark came and the full moon tried to break through the clouds.

Stew and Fastshot were enjoying their Guinness and telling stories, I think they may have missed the evening light.

Stew had warned us that friends complain about him "bringing the rain".

With this in mind, what else was in store for us?

To find out click here for Part Two.